'03 Cranks But No Start.

I've replaced the pump in tank & getting ready to put things back together. Checked battery voltage 12.4. Voltage at plug for pump with ignition on is only 11.2 ???. Does this indicate a problem ?.
Battery problem yes, pump problem no. The battery should be reading fully charged around 13.2 volts. When the ignition is turned on the voltage will drop a little (about 1 volt) due to the headlight draw and fuel pump's startup to pressure. With the engine running the voltage at the battery terminals should read about 14.4 volts. If the terminal voltage does not get to 14 volts with the engine running your rectifier is bad and needs replaced.
 
So... A while ago I got it back together. It started right up. Tightened everything down & it started again. Got 1/2 a block & it died never to start again. I got pissed off & decided to ride my other bike for awhile. Had a look today. Found a small 2 wire harness going to a small black plastic button thing that is located on the underside of the top triple clamp to the right of the ignition switch. They are broken off flush with the button thing. The wires are grey & orange. Don't know what they're for, or how to remove this little button. Left of the ignition switch is a clear light bulb thing that I was told was probably for the accessory alarm. Which I don't believe I have. Manual is useless. Can't find these colored wires in the manual, so have no idea what they are for. Oh... battery was replaced last year just B4 the problem. Shows full charge on batt. tender & cranks over strong.
 
Could you show some pictures at distance and close ups to get an idea of where and what this is?
 
A picture would be helpful. If you have a scematic that would also be helpful. When you say "manual" are you referring to an owner's or maintenance?
 
A picture would be helpful. If you have a scematic that would also be helpful. When you say "manual" are you referring to an owner's or maintenance?
Both. Factory manual does not show anything with both a grey & an orange wire going to anything. Neither reference the the the white bulb in the triple clamp to bottom of the ignition switch either. It & the black thing to the right of the switch & mounted under the top triple clamp the wires appear to have detached from are obviously a factory install. I guess I could start taking stuff apart again to see where the other end goes.
I think the schematic is the same one sent to me by sikatri in an earlier reply. I bought the bike at 6300 kilometers 15yrs ago. It had no electrical mods. I replaced the stock regulator/ rectifier shortly after due to recommendations from Triumph forums with a MOSFET unit that has worked flawlessly since.
Sorry I can't send pics. I don't even have a smart phone.
 
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Both. Factory manual does not show anything with both a grey & an orange wire going to anything. Neither reference the the the white bulb in the triple clamp to the left of the ignition switch either. It & the black thing to the right of the switch & mounted under the top triple clamp the wires appear to have detached from are obviously a factory install. I guess I could start taking stuff apart again to see where the other end goes.
I think the schematic is the same one sent to me by sikatri in an earlier reply. I bought the bike at 6300 kilometers 15yrs ago. It had no electrical mods. I replaced the stock regulator/ rectifier shortly after due to recommendations from Triumph forums with a MOSFET unit that has worked flawlessly since.
Sorry I can't send pics. I don't even have a smart phone.

Could you show some pictures at distance and close ups to get an idea of where and what this is?
Meant to say the white light is at the bottom of the ignition switch. The switch in the middle of the triple clamp. Have no cell phone' can't send pics. The wires go to a small black thing to the right & under the clamp.
 
Here's a link to a schematic for the 03 Speed Triple:

The legend would be on the previous page in the service manual.

One of the problems for the early Triumph Rocket III's was the factory ran headlight power through the ignition switch barrel that caused a de-soldering of the wires in the barrel due to amp draw of the headlights overheating the wires. Repairing the problem required pulling the ignition switch apart and re-soldering wires to the contact barrel. Most of the owner's of the '04 to '09 models put in a relay bypass to get power directly from the battery to the headlights (I was one of those people) that utilized the OEM switch Hi to Low beam taking headlight power out of the ignition switch.

If you have detached wires that's not nothing, it needs to get sorted out.
 
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