1966 Triumph Daytona (1972)

saig55

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Ok, here’s my story. I saw this bike for sale. It was listed as a 1966 Triumph Daytona 500cc. It was an abandoned bike that had been in storage since 1983. The head and top of the engine is missing along with a few other parts. But most of the bike is in fair shape. Just dirty and rusty. No title, bill of sale.
Anyway, it was almost 3 hrs away from me and regardless of the year I wanted it. I don’t know a lot about the older Triumphs so when I got it home I checked the vin and it turns out to be a 1972 Daytona. Vin number T100R EG 57966. Kinda sad it wasn’t a 60’s model but still happy it’s a 72.
Definitely a work in process….. my goal is to get it running first than slowly clean ,paint, repair or replace as needed.
it shows 10700 miles.
This is how I came to this forum, looking for answers…. And help!!
 

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grandpaul

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... it turns out to be a 1972 Daytona... my goal is to get it running first than slowly clean ,paint, repair or replace as needed.
I have a transmission cover in better shape than that engine, so it would be an upgrade. It's just taking up space in my shop. Postage plus a burger, and it's yours.
 

saig55

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I appreciate that but let me look through my box of parts that came with it. I may have a cover. What I don’t have is a cylinder head and rockers. They are MIA… thanks again
 

saig55

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I just picked the bike up today and not sure of what I have and don’t… I know I have nothing above the pistons….
 

Rudie

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checked the vin and it turns out to be a 1972
Kinda sad it wasn’t a 60’s model
On the contrary, 1972 500 is much better than a mid-1960's one.

The style is very similar (e.g. you can retrofit the earlier tank badges), the Daytona was not subjected to the 1971 650 oil in frame restyle.

The "Daytona" name came from Triumph beat Hardly at the 1966 Daytona 200 (and again in 1967) with a 500-based engine. Mechanically, Triumph began to improve the 500 from the 1967 model year, based on racing experience - '67 on Daytonas have twin carbs and a different cylinder head; the frame was all-new, based on the 650's rather than the Tiger Cub's. '69 on, Triumph changed the bottom end, doing away with the timing-side bush that was both main bearing and crank oil feed, using timing-side ball and drive-side roller bearings.

The '69 on engine is at least as tough as the 650's. About the only thing wrong with it as standard is Triumph inflicted its awful fascination with acceleration over any other consideration. Less powerful earlier 500's had a 19 tooth gearbox sprocket and as small as a 43 tooth rear wheel sprocket; the Daytona's 18 and 46 respectively is just silly.

don’t have is a cylinder head and rockers.
Essentially, head and rocker (boxes?) from any '67 on 500 will fit. The only thing to watch for is early '67 T100C used up the last of the pre-'67 heads. The difference is: correct head, manifold mounts with 5/16" bolts/studs, earlier head, manifold mounts with 1/4" bolts/studs.

'71 on rocker boxes have an extra short bolt in each side, holes for the feeler gauge when setting valve clearances.

'69 on head has 1/4"-20 (UNC) threads for the rocker box bolts, pre-'69 head has 1/4"-26 (BSF) threads. '69 on head also uses different pushrod tubes and seals from pre-'69; however, if you can only find a '67 or '68 head, the tappet guide blocks in the bottom of the cylinder barrel are the only other parts that need changing so you can use '67/'68 pushrod tubes and seals.

not sure of what I have and don’t
Triumph parts books free to read here. Triumph 500 workshop manual free to read here.
 

grandpaul

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On the contrary, 1972 500 is much better than a mid-1960's one.

(all the tech the OP needs to know)

Triumph parts books free to read here. Triumph 500 workshop manual free to read here.
As usual, NAILED it!
 

saig55

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I found all this in a box…
A little cleaning and the clutch plates will be good as new… lol
 

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saig55

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Does this look like the correct pipes for this bike?
 

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triumph david

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All and all looks like you came up with a good find!
 

Rudie

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As usual, NAILED it!
Thanks. :)

Does this look like the correct pipes for this bike?
The pipe and muffler appear to be one piece? If so, no. If the muffler is separate from the pipe, pictures of the other side of the pipe and the end of the muffler will give more information.

The 'correct' pipes and mufflers and shown in the parts book. And/or enter "1972 Triumph T100" into an internet search engine, most of the returned images will show the 'correct' pipes and mufflers.
 

saig55

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Thanks for all the replies… still figuring some of this out. Biggest thing for me is knowing what I don’t have…
Hope to work on it some today.
 

saig55

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Ok guys, should I switch to a different forum to talk about repairs and such or just stay here in this one.
 

Rocky

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Considering all the information here I would stay with this thread.
 

saig55

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Alright then…:
I’m going to assume that I can’t turn the engine over with the kickstart with the clutch pack out. Is this correct?
I did turn the engine over with a socket on the primary side. Turned smooth.
 

Rudie

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can’t turn the engine over with the kickstart with the clutch pack out.
Correct.
did turn the engine over with a socket on the primary side. Turned smooth.
You are not deducing anything from this? The engine needs a complete strip down and proper rebuild - if nothing else, the main bearings require replacement (their tracks have almost certainly been damaged by moisture). Rust cleaned off all the engine internals, you will be able to see if there is any:-

. big end wear or damage; any damage = new shells, crank regrind to suit;

. cylinder bore wear or damage; any damage = minimum new pistons, rebore to suit; wear only, you might get away with new piston rings and honing the bore; rusty bores, persistently turning the engine over is more likely to damage it where it wasn't before ...

While you have it apart, clean out the crank sludge trap and, before you start using the bike, fit one of the frame mounted aftermarket filter kits; then you will know the trap is clean and will remain that way.
 
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