Old Bike Lover
Riding for 52 Years
- Local time
- Yesterday, 22:17
- Apr 14, 2006
- Leander, Texas
- My Ride
- 2000 Legend 900 Triple, 1969 Bonneville vintage roadracer
Glenn, thanks for your comments and advice. I have the bike, engine and all, completely apart down to the swing arm bushings - and will replace those - getting them out was a tedious job. I do have to get to the wheels and brakes, but am going to take those all apart. Got the photos documenting as much as I can and they have come in handy. I've got my frame parts, and some others, out for powder coating. I thought about attempting to do the paint myself, but live in an apartment so could not find a suitable place to spray. When I took this on, I was thinking like you said, that doing this would give me a total understanding of the bike. I'm replacing all bearings and any worn parts I find. Lot of work but it keeps me intrigued.My '79 T140 looked almost as bad when I bought it. Parts are easily found through a lot of vendors. Just use a search engine to look for parts vendors. Do yourself a favor and take the bike completely apart. It is easier to work on. Also, get the engine rebuilt. Replace all other parts that are a part of the engine (carb, oil pump, etc.) as well as the brake system. I did none of this and had to go back and do it a short time later. Easier to do it while it is apart. Take a ton of photos as you disassemble it. Looks like you have a lot of surface rust that you can remove. The chrome parts fall in this category. Most of the parts you will be able to clean up or paint and save. Taking it apart and putting it back together will give you an understanding of how your bike functions. For my knowledge's sake that was the best thing I did. It gave me a total understanding of my bike. Have fun.
Thanks again grandpaul. I'm not replacing all parts, but lots. The crank measures good and the rods are fine too. This thing hadn't run for 40 years so there was a lot of corrosion, for example, in the fork sliders and the valving was worn there and the bushings looked like they had been installed improperly. Unfortunately a lot of my fasteners for the engine and frame are worn, very corroded - so I am replacing quite a few of those too. While I haven't got new carb yet, I am planning to as my slides were corroded with holes through them, and there was a lot of corrosion on the bodies. As I go along I find that this machine is a mixture of parts of at least a few bikes.I'll throw this in -
Not ALL parts need to be replaced. I've only ever replaced a handful of original oil pumps, out or 40+ overhauls. Also only replaced 3 pairs of carbs for premiers out of at least 60 overhauls, refurbs, etc.
Same goes for connecting rods, cranks, and all manner of parts.
The shop manual includes specifications for allowable wear on ALL parts. In my case, on MY bikes (NOT client builds), if my parts were within 1/2 or less allowable wear, they went back in the bike.
Sleeving Amal carb bodies is still cheaper than buying new Premiers. Of course, in some countries, postage to a rebuilder/machinist can be prohibitive.
Obviously, if you are tearing an engine all the way down to the crank, and you can afford to, go ahead and replace everything that's worn enough to be "questionable". If the clean, undamaged parts measure to the low end of wear spec, it isn't critical. Maybe the only exception is big end shell bearings. I've pulled out some real nice lean ones and replaced them anyway.
Support TriumphTalk by becoming a Premium Member.