engine
rotated the engine a good amount.
Stop doing this until you have added oil in several other places:-
. When the engine is running, camshafts and followers are 'splash lubricated'- by oil that drains into the crankcase from higher up the engine, picked up by the spinning crankshaft flywheel and flung around the crankcase. Simply "rotating the engine" doesn't do this, so camshafts and followers could be rotating/rubbing without oil.
. Also when the engine is running, oil is pumped to the rockers and valves in the cylinder head. Again, simply "rotating the engine" doesn't do this, so rockers and valves could be moving without oil.
. Remove the four valve inspection caps from the rocker-boxes, use an oil 'squirt-can' with a long spout to squirt engine oil liberally over valves, springs and rockers. Also squirt liberally at the rocker ends on the tops of the pushrods, some of the oil should then drain down the pushrod tubes to the cams and followers.
. Remove the two domed nuts from the ends of the rocker shafts, use the 'squirt-can' to push oil into the rocker shafts - required is steady pressure on the 'squirt-can' lever for a period and you might be rewarded with oil dribbling from between rockers and washers.
Later, before first starting the engine, pour a full pint of engine oil into the primary chaincase the day or night before the first start. A full pint is more than the chaincase requires normally, the excess will drain into the crankcase; when the engine starts, the oil will be picked up and flung about by the flywheel, lubricating 'splash-lubricated' bearings before oil drawn from the tank and pumped through the crankshaft. Also, oil returning to the tank will show sooner than waiting for oil drawn from the tank and pumped through the crankshaft to drain into the sump, cutting the time you hold your breath after starting the engine before scavenged oil reappears in the tank ...
Wiring
where to get electrical parts
If you want a complete harness off-the-shelf,
British Wiring do the best in the US. I strongly advise against "Genuine Lucas", which is nothing of the sort.
However, British Wiring is only "the best" if you ask and they agree not to supply an exact copy of a 1971 T100C harness but to incorporate certain changes to fix original '71 cost-cutting and/or make it easier to connect late 20th century electrical components. Aiui, BW will make changes only
sometimes, so you have to ask; if they won't make the suggested changes for you, as you're happy with wiring, "the best" is more-likely diy from components (which'll also be cheaper).
Desirable changes are:-
. Brown/Blue wire from battery negative to ignition switch in
28-strand. '71-on standard is
14-strand, its 8.75A rating is exceeded by the standard alternator output above about 2,000 rpm ...
. Brown/Blue wire also without connections for original rectifier and Zener diode (latter in the finned casting attached to the front of the lower fork yoke). Late 20th century replacement is an electronic combined regulator/rectifier, its DC output wires connected directly to corresponding battery terminals.
. Brown/Blue wire also without fuse/holder.
. Fuse/holder in a 28-strand Red wire, that being the only Red wire from the harness Red wires network attached to the battery positive terminal.
. White wire from ignition switch to junction with individual components' White wires also in 28-strand.
. If fitting an electronic ignition:-
.. Second White/Yellow wire and terminal by the coils deleted. Two White/Yellow wires and terminals are only required with points ignition (one White/Yellow wire is connected to each coil's negative terminal). With electronic ignition, only one White/Yellow wire and terminal is required, for connection to the ignition 'box'.
.. Second Black/White and Black/Yellow wires deleted. With points ignition, one each of Black/White and Black/Yellow wires connects a coil's positive terminal with its corresponding points; the second of each Black/White and Black/Yellow wires connects a coil's positive terminal with one of the condensers (inside a rubber and metal box normally mounted under the forward fuel tank mounting to the frame). Condensers aren't required with electronic ignition, so one each of the standard Black/White and Black/Yellow wires from the coils' positive terminals isn't required. Similarly, the Red wire that originally connected the condensers box to the harness isn't required.
If you decide to diy the harness, while BW's website looks like they can supply everything required, regrettably there are some significant gaps - e.g. (currently?) they don't list crimping tools for any of the listed terminals ... - while some other components are expensive.
If you look more widely than BW, consider
Autosparks (BW's supplier, but a greater selection of components than BW) and
Vehicle Wiring Products in the UK - not as daft as it might look initially for a large order, as you wouldn't pay the UK equivalent of sales tax, and carriage to the US is significantly less than the likes of the USPS screw you to send stuff out of the US.
Btw, if you buy from Europe or British Wiring, one thing you might wish to be aware of, despite BW including "Gauge" (AWG) is some of its wire descriptions, all wire is metric - each strand is 0.3 mm. OD, 14-strand has a 1 sq.mm. conductor cross-section, 28-strand is 2 sq.mm.
As I say, it's been common for decades to replace it and the Zener diode with a combined regulator/rectifier. My preference is for one of only two -
Podtronics POD-3P or
5-PIN Voltage Regulator RectifIer for HONDA CBR600/900RR 1100XX 96-99 97 98 NEW | eBay plus
5 Way Regulator Rectifier Male Plug Connector For HONDA VT750 Shadow 750 400 | eBay.
As you can see, both are for 3-phase alternators, while the alternator on your bike is (was originally) 2-wire single-phase. Reason is, if/when the bike needs a new alternator, or you want to upgrade, all alternators (stators) are a similar price, so that makes a (high-output) 3-phase the best value. In that case, I'm guessing you wouldn't want to have to upgrade the reg./rec. as well when, right now, a single-phase alternator can be connected to a 3-phase reg./rec.?
As you can also see, big difference in price. Podtronics is US made, been around for decades, US-based back-up if anything goes wrong. Ebay ones have been around for a decade to my knowledge, rock reliable, but you can buy three or four for the price of the Pod.
As I say, simply connect the DC wires of each directly to the battery terminals - Red to battery positive, Black or Green to battery negative. I include a blade fuse/holder in one of the wires.