23 Tiger 1200 Clutch Bleed

[Dr Joe]

After about 5,000 miles on my 23 Tiger Rally Explorer, the clutch began to bite immediately and it became almost impossible to switch gears. In one of the forums I was pointed to Service Bulletin 604 - Hydraulic Clutch System Bleed. I brought it into my dealer. He bled the clutch and it was great, but only for a few hundred miles. Now it is beginning to do the same thing. Not bad yet, hardly noticeable, but that clutch is biting very quick and harder to shift when cold.

Anybody have any thoughts?

 

[Qship]

No chance of any air getting in the system, is there?

 

[Dr Joe]

No chance of any air getting in the system, is there?

Nope. Closed system. It is apparently a problem based on the Service Bulletin, just looking to see if anyone else has had it repaired or having a recurring problem.

 

[Qship]

The activation cylinder leaking by, perhaps and needs to be changed out for one with better seals/quality? Is that maybe a fix suggested in the 604 service bulletin?

 

[Dr Joe]

The activation cylinder leaking by, perhaps and needs to be changed out for one with better seals/quality? Is that maybe a fix suggested in the 604 service bulletin?

I don't think so. The repair "Spares Kit" for "Clutch Bleed" seems to contains a couple of screws. - Screw, Csk, M6x1.0x50,Slv, Enc - Qty 1 Screw, Cap/HD, M6x1x20, Slv, Enc - Qty 1 -

 

[Qship]

I fail to understand how changing a few screws/bolts will fix a sealed hydraulic system that obviously has defects.
First I have heard of the issue you have, but I don't frequent other forums.
Will your dealer change out the seals in the master cylinder and the activation cylinder in a better attempt to fix your problem? Sometimes when vehicles are defective from the factory, it takes a few 'samples' to find the problem so they can properly sort it out. Could be they got a bad batch of components with cheap seals. The bean counters will find a way to build them as cheaply as possible, sometimes with bad consequences. We(the consumers) get to pay the price for their short sightedness.

 

[atomsplitter]

Is the piston actuated by an adjustable screw? My hydraulic clutch on my 1200 Trophy doesn't have any adjustment and it has never had the problem you describe. The issue doesn't sound like fluid/air, more like available throw (how far it moves the piston). Can you take a pic of the clutch perch lever and post it?

The brake lever on my 1200 Speed Triple has an adjustable throw (19 - 21mm):

 

[Dr Joe]

The owners manual states, "Check that there is 0.08 - 0.12 in (2 - 3 mm) clutch lever free play at the lever. If there is an incorrect amount of free play, adjustments must be made."
But also states "The motorcycle is equipped with a hydraulically operated clutch that does not require adjustment." The hand guard gets in the way of a proper pic, but it only has the grip adjustment screw that I can see.

 

[atomsplitter]

Take the free play down to the minimum and see if it acts the same.

 

[Dr Joe]

Take the free play down to the minimum and see if it acts the same.

I've repeatedly messed with that. Max out adjustment seems to give a better "bite" spot, but seems to make down shifting to neutral or 1 much harder. I typically buy new bikes (or near new) so I can just enjoy riding, adding accessories, cleaning and even light scheduled maintenance. I love this bike, but it is becoming a PITA. I am thinking of taking the loss and just trading it for a BMW GSA.

 

[atomsplitter]

What is the DOT fluid specified for the clutch master cylinder? It should be written on the cover.

 

[atomsplitter]

You could try swapping out the fluid with fresh DOT 5.1. The boiling point for a clutch slave shouldn't be a real issue, however with your symptoms it might be. Both DOT 4 and 5.1 are glycol based but the 5.1 has a higher boiling point. To swap the fluid is no real feat. There's a bleeder screw on top of the slave cylinder. I put a small tygon (clear) hose on that with a 8mm box end wrench on the nipple. Route the hose to a bottle (like a used water bottle) Then squeeze the clutch lever, crack open the nipple and when the fluid stops, close the nipple, release the clutch lever and repeat a few times. Then open the master reservoir cover and refill. Recap the master cylinder and repeat until the volume of the system is purged (probably about 1/2 to 3/4 bottle of fluid). When done all new fluid, no air in the system and you're ready to rock and roll.

Don't worry about mixing 4 and 5.1, they are compatible fluids so no harm to your system.

 

[Dr Joe]

What is the DOT fluid specified for the clutch master cylinder? It should be written on the cover.

4 or 5.1

 

[atomsplitter]

See post 12 above.

 

[Dr Joe]

Thanks so much for the reply. I will consider that, but frankly, I don't think I should have to do that on a bike under warranty. Urggg. It's not really a problem since the dealer did a bleed, but it seems to be coming back to an extent.

 

[atomsplitter]

You might enquire with your dealer's tech about what fluid he used when he bled the system. I get you are a bit fustrated with the bike, but a bottle of hydraulic fluid is a lot cheaper than trading the bike off.

 

[Dr Joe]

You might enquire with your dealer's tech about what fluid he used when he bled the system. I get you are a bit fustrated with the bike, but a bottle of hydraulic fluid is a lot cheaper than trading the bike off.

Good point.

 

[Micraf]

I also had this problem and waited for the 16,000km service. The dealer said he bled the system, and it has rectified the problem. I have not yet ridden the bike since service so not sure if the problem will recur. I'll let you know.

 

[Rocketroy]

After about 5,000 miles on my 23 Tiger Rally Explorer, the clutch began to bite immediately and it became almost impossible to switch gears. In one of the forums I was pointed to Service Bulletin 604 - Hydraulic Clutch System Bleed. I brought it into my dealer. He bled the clutch and it was great, but only for a few hundred miles. Now it is beginning to do the same thing. Not bad yet, hardly noticeable, but that clutch is biting very quick and harder to shift when cold.

Anybody have any thoughts?

This is a known issue, that's why the Service Bulletin.
Take it back to your dealer to fix. It's still under warranty.

 

[atomsplitter]

Thanks so much for the reply. I will consider that, but frankly, I don't think I should have to do that on a bike under warranty. Urggg. It's not really a problem since the dealer did a bleed, but it seems to be coming back to an extent.

It occurs to me that the issue is disengagement of the clutch plates. You might try a simple test. Screw the clutch perch adjuster all the way IN, start the engine and then pull the clutch lever to the bar and let it run that way for a minute or two. This should max out the plate release and allow oil to flow between the plates. Release the clutch lever, back the adjuster off until it has 2mm free play and take it for a ride, rowing thru the gear box. See if it alters the engagement point.