23 Tiger 1200 Clutch Bleed

The owners manual states, "Check that there is 0.08 - 0.12 in (2 - 3 mm) clutch lever free play at the lever. If there is an incorrect amount of free play, adjustments must be made."
But also states "The motorcycle is equipped with a hydraulically operated clutch that does not require adjustment." The hand guard gets in the way of a proper pic, but it only has the grip adjustment screw that I can see.
In your photo the only screw I see is the one to adjust the lever free play. I also assume that the free play measurements are at the lever adjustment screw/master cylinder rod interface and not at the end of the lever? Your owner’s manual should advise where the free play should be measured.

As I understand your problem you cannot fully disengage the clutch. In which case the master cylinder is not pushing sufficient fluid to the slave cylinder (lever free play adjustment required) OR there is air in the system (hydraulic system needs bleeding) OR the hydraulic fluid is too low and needs topping up.
 
It occurs to me that the issue is disengagement of the clutch plates. You might try a simple test. Screw the clutch perch adjuster all the way IN, start the engine and then pull the clutch lever to the bar and let it run that way for a minute or two. This should max out the plate release and allow oil to flow between the plates. Release the clutch lever, back the adjuster off until it has 2mm free play and take it for a ride, rowing thru the gear box. See if it alters the engagement point.

This reminds me of the clutch plates on the Meriden machines tending to stick together, especially for the first start of the day. The remedy was to kick the engine over with the clutch lever pulled to the bar until the clutch was truly disengaged.

So the quick way to check would be, with engine off, select first gear, pull the clutch lever to the bar whilst rocking the bike to and fro. You will immediately know whether the clutch is operating as it should.
 
I took the bike to the local dealer. He noted that the bite was way too soon when releasing the clutch. He did a "reverse bleed" of the clutch. Said he had seen one other, and the guy put 10,000 miles on after he did the reverse bleed, and no problem. It is working back to specs now (and delightful). I think the service bulletin describes a reverse bleed and the screws are just replacements.
 
So far, so good. Bust now she goes to bed for the winter. I'll have to see if it is fixed, or if the saga continues next Spring.
 
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