40mm LED Indicators

[vinnyb]

After years of wanting a T120, I've finally bought a 2019 Street Twin, that if I'm honest probably suits my needs better, I'd still prefer the twin clocks though.
Anyway I've just bought a set of 40mm LED indicators. Rear fitment is easy but the front ones go round the fork legs. Triumph fitting instruction say to remove the top yoke and all the faff that goes with it. My thought is that it'd be much easier to remove the front wheel and drop the legs through one at a time. Has anyone got any experience of fitting these indicators? If so how did you do it? Thanks in anticipation.

 

[sikatri]

Post a link or picture of the type you are trying to install. Would be helpful in giving advice.

 

[vinnyb]

Post a link or picture of the type you are trying to install. Would be helpful in giving advice.

Sorry I should've made myself a bit clearer. the indicators are the genuine Triumph accessory ones.

https://triumphdirect.co.uk/cdn/shop/products/A9838023_720x.jpg?v=1644858972

 

[atomsplitter]

If they are anything like my Bobber's Rage indicators (or my T-Bird's units) then lowering a fork leg out of the upper triple tree is by far easier. Make sure you put the legs back where you found them in the triple tree (the Bobber is simple, it has upper stops).

 

[sikatri]

Well, I don’t have your model and I was unfamiliar with what the top end looks like. I’m also not exactly sure what you are trying to do. Here’s a picture of a Triumph T120 supposedly a 2019.
If you’re just replacing the original indicator signals with the ones you posted a link to I’m at a loss as to why you need to go through all that work. Seems to me you remove the headlight attachment bolts to get space to work on the signals and replace them with the new ones. But as I said, I don’t have your model and I don’t know where you are intending to install these. Just looking at the original setup it doesn’t seem very different from my 2005 Thruxton. The only reason to remove any of the top on the triple tree is to remove and replace those brackets that hold the signals and headlamp in place. However, you showed just the signals being replaced and not the brackets. Side note, when I installed my new fairing, I removed the brackets completely and that meant removing the top of the triple tree and sliding the brackets out. It was pretty easy and I would recommend that over fooling with the lower end. It really is pretty simple. So are you replacing the brackets or just the signals? Either way I’d go from the top.

Here’s a link to my fairing thread. I have a picture of the brackets on mine removed.

Thread 'Fairing Mod Coming Soon!'

Dec 17, 2022

Starting the transition to a half fairing on my Thruxton. Just ordered the fairing in brushed, plan to eventually have it painted and if not I can polish it myself. Will have to order an instrument panel bracket and a few other relocation brackets for some of the components like the rectifier and signals. I will also be relocating the ignition key to the instrument panel.

• sikatri
• Replies: 99
• Forum: Thruxton - All Models

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The top triple tree is not difficult to remove and all the components easily shift to the side. Bonus the motorcycle is in little danger with both wheels on the ground if needed. Or on paddock stands like I had.

Or is it like this?

 

[atomsplitter]

Here's what I have on my T-Bird:


It's held in place by pinch bolts:


The easiest way to get those on is drop the fork leg out of the upper triple tree. Same as the New Rage indicators on my Bobber:

 

[sikatri]

This is why showing pictures of what is existing and what is being replaced is important. Advice is only good if we know what is there and what is being replaced. My Google search of what the OP’s setup looks like is different than what atomsplitter shows. It’s up to the OP to show and tell us what they have and what is being replaced. You end up with different advice depending on our guesswork. LoL. To the OP, what does your motorcycle look like and what are you trying to do. The link isn’t enough information as you can see from the two different suggestions. It all depends on which condition exists, are they attached to the light bracket or like in atomsplitter’s post.

 

[sikatri]

I’m still a bit at a loss though. If it’s like atomsplitter’s setup and the signals are being replaced to original location why is it necessary to drop the bottom or remove the top? It does seem the Street Twin setup would likely be like atomsplitter’s. Is it to access a bolt or is it about wiring? I keep seeing different types of signal brackets for Street Twins of that vintage. No exactly like either of our posts. Well hopefully the OP or brighter minds will enlighten me. LoL.

 

[sikatri]

This photo is from OP’s link.

Please clarify the existing condition and if the signal bracket is being replaced. No idea how the wiring is routed from the information given at this point.

 

[vinnyb]

This photo is from OP’s link.
View attachment 59655
Please clarify the existing condition and if the signal bracket is being replaThe bracket that hold the indicators

This photo is from OP’s link.
View attachment 59655
Please clarify the existing condition and if the signal bracket is being replaced.

On the Street Twin, the brackets that hold the front indicators go around the fork legs and sit above the bottom yoke, they're one piece mouldings with pinch bolts to tightened them onto the fork leg. The indicators are screwed on to the brackets from the inside so they need to be removed to do that, the wiring also feeds around the inside of brackets.

 

[sikatri]

On the Street Twin, the brackets that hold the front indicators go around the fork legs and sit above the bottom yoke, they're one piece mouldings with pinch bolts to tightened them onto the fork leg. The indicators are screwed on to the brackets from the inside so they need to be removed to do that, the wiring also feeds around the inside of brackets.

Where does the wiring come out and where is the connector to the wires we see on the item you posted. So it looks more like the second picture on my revised post. Is the wiring connection within the headlight or elsewhere? If the only reason for dropping is to route the wires and the actual connection is not within the tube then you could attach a “fishing” line to the end of the existing fixture as you pull it out. You can then try to reverse the process and pull the new wires in the same way. This depends on where the actual connection is and how big the holes are which are not shown. Photos would be nice. What do you mean by screwed in from the inside? But if inclined to, just do as atomsplitter suggested. That will certainly work as would accessing from the top. I’d see if it’s possible to do neither since you are using the existing bracket.
Is this the original?

 

[sikatri]

That’s all the suggestions I have. Seems the choices you have are to do as the instructions say from the top. Drop the forks as noted. Or see if there is an alternative third. Which likely isn’t if there is a hidden bolt from the inside of the bracket, which is what I’m guessing you mean. Perhaps a list of pros and cons for either approach. How is the bike supported, what components need to be removed for either method. Seems like it will be a personal preference which we can’t really answer.

 

[vinnyb]

This is the hidden screw and cable route.

 

[sikatri]

This is the hidden screw and cable route.

Ok. And you’re not using the bracket in this picture, but the existing one? I’d pick the method that seems easiest for you regardless. My inclination is to work from the top down. I want the motorcycle to be essentially on its own weight and not have to deal with the wheel, brakes or anything else. To me this boils down to preferences. Make a pros and cons list. I think @atomsplitter will give you guidance if you choose to go the drop route. To me disassembling the top is a direction I would be more comfortable with. Let us know what you plan to do and show us the results! Good luck!

 

[atomsplitter]

You might be able to collapse each fork tube against the fork spring without disassembly of the front end, (or you could remove the fork cap and spring). My T-120 the fork caps can be removed with the front end fully assembled. Pull the fork spring out (slowly to preserve the oil), loosen pinch bolts, slip the tube down, install the bracket, slide the tube back up to position, tighten pinch bolts, reinstall spring and fork cap and done. If memory serves I loosened the left side pinch bolts and pulled the tube down far enough to mount a replacement indicator on my Bobber. Then raised it back to the stop and retightened. The Speed Twin may not have a stop so a little more care should be taken to restore it to the correct position if it does not.

 

[sikatri]

Great advice @atomsplitter ! Sounds like a plan to try! I so enjoy reading the advice of the participants here.

 

[vinnyb]

As I said in my first post I'd prefer to drop the fork legs rather than removing the top yoke/ handlebar to avoid disturbing the notoriously tight wiring loom. If someone else on here has already done it that way I know it should work. Thanks to everyone.

 

[atomsplitter]

As I said in my first post I'd prefer to drop the fork legs rather than removing the top yoke/ handlebar to avoid disturbing the notoriously tight wiring loom. If someone else on here has already done it that way I know it should work. Thanks to everyone.

I should note, do only one stanchion at a time.

 

[vinnyb]

Absolutely but thanks anyway.