64 3ta
pressure plate is the 4 spring type.
Is the clutch set up from a different year?
Pre-'63.
How do you know your bike is '64? Are the frame number and engine number the same?
having problems with clutch creep. Adjusting didn't help
What oil are you using in the primary? The 'recommended' low-viscosity oil is likely impossible to find; if not already, use something like ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid), recommended quantity.
After getting the clutch all back together, the cable snapped,
That could be a reason why "Adjusting didn't help"; the cable was stretching before it broke.
how to set the pressure of the springs, I tighten them till there is no clutch slip & no pressure plate wobble.
Another possible reason why the cable broke.
Tighten the spring nuts 'til the ends of the studs are level with the bottoms of the nuts' slots. Stand astride the bike, pull the handlebar clutch lever and operate the kickstart while looking down at the clutch. If the pressure plate appears to 'wobble', operate the kickstart more slowly to ascertain the 'highest' point of the 'wobble' - where the pressure plate is furtherest out. Tighten the nearest spring nut (or two if the '"highest point" is between two) a little at a time - checking as above - until the pressure plate appears to run true when rotated.
If the stud(s) of the spring nut(s) 'adjusted' to remove pressure plate 'wobble' protrude much above the top(s) of the spring nut(s), something else is wrong within the clutch.
Having set the spring compression and adjusted the pressure plate, ensure the far end of the clutch operating rod is pressed against the Thrust Plate in the actuating mechanism in the gearbox outer cover - remove the central adjuster stud from the pressure plate and press on the visible end of the clutch operating rod.
When replacing the central adjuster stud in the pressure plate, turn the screwdriver turning the stud between thumb and forefinger only; when the stud hits the end of the rod, you won't be able to turn the stud any further and you can then turn it anti-clockwise about a half-turn and lock it in position with the locknut.
If you turn the screwdriver held in a fist, it isn't possible to detect when the pressure plate starts to lift; if the pressure plate is lifted at all, any subsequent anti-clockwise turning of the adjuster stud is irrelevant, the adjustment won't be correct.
Having refitted the primary outer cover, test handlebar clutch lever pull with the chaincase adjuster plug both fitted and not, to discover if the adjuster stud in the pressure plate is hitting the inside of the adjuster plug slot. Unfortunately, Triumph didn't make early chaincases very deep and pattern parts can reduce the very small standard clearance to nothing or negative.
I bought a new set of friction plates, the plain plates are all in great condition.
Did you check all plates for flatness (on a sheet of glass)? Did you check the cutaways in the basket for notches, that the driving plates tabs could catch on? Did you file out any found?
only have a Haynes manual & this only refers to 3 spring types
Is there a better manual than Haynes,
Haynes motorcycle manuals are excellent - under the short leg of wobbly furniture, as doorstops, etc. Certainly for the 4-spring clutch, you should have
Triumph Instruction Manual No.4 (if other major parts of your bike are '64, you should also either have
the Triumph '63-'74 workshop manual or bookmark the
link to the free online copy); parts books are available online at
Vintage Bike Magazine » Parts Books, under "Tri 500-Unit".
spring length
all measure 40mm.
If the basket is a 3TA one - contains 4 driving plates and 5 driven (plain) plates - the springs should actually be 1-1/2" (38 mm.) long.
Only if the basket is a 500 one - 1/4" deeper than a 3TA one, 5 driving, 6 driven plates - should four springs be 50 mm. (a gnat's under 2") long.
The difference in 3 and 4 spring clutch doesn't matter.
For adjustment only. As shown, there are significant differences between 3- and 4-spring clutch components, in addition to the obvious one.