Amal Carb Question

Ragmanx

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Discussion Starter • #1 a moment ago
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I replaced the carb on my 1970 T100C with brand spankin' new Amal Premier 626 26MM concentric carburetor. Everything works great except that I have to tickle the carb three or four times after each kick before it finally catches.
Before I take it all apart, I would like to know if any of you guys have an idea or what might be causing this problem.
Thank you
 

grandpaul

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Sounds like the low-speed passage is blocked with manufacturing debris, a very well-known drawback to the Burlen Amal carbs since the new factory. Take it apart and clean it. That's what I've done with EVERY new Premier, with good results.
 

Ragmanx

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I'm heading out to the shop to install the new larger #19 pilot jet.
If I have to take the new carb apart and go through it as I have done many times before on the old carb. I hate to have to do it a brand new $200 carb, but it is what it is.

All the problems are it cold start up and sometimes after it is warm. After that the bike runs great.

Is the "low speed passage behind the pilot jet? And how do I go about unblocking it?

Thank you, Steve
 

Ragmanx

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I put in the new pilot jet but the bike developed an electrical problem, I'll report my findings as soon as I can get it to run.
 

CarlS

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Thanks for the update. Please keep us posted.
 

grandpaul

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90% of carb problems are electrical.

(and vice-versa)
 

Ragmanx

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Carl- Will do. should get to it this weekend.

GrandPaul- Very true. I'll try to get both corrected shortly.

Will post results this weekend.
 

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35+ year mechanic here= AMAL carbs are pretty simple. I would, as above, clean the pilot jet and double check the float level. AMALs are very sensitive to both.
Electrical gremlins are absolutely a source of low speed running. You need adequate voltage to fire the ignition, especially if you are running a Boyer or other electronic ignition. That goes for a weak battery or charging system, too.
 

Ragmanx

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Looks like I have the electric issue solved. At least I have spark to the plugs.

Blew out the pilot jet hole, cleaned out the hole the best I could with wire strands and installed the new jet.

Then pulled the bowl and measured the distance from the top of the float to the casting edge. It is 0.114. I cannot determine what the correct measurement should be on this new 36mm card.
 

Ragmanx

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Thanks for the update. Please keep us posted.
Just got back from the shop. Kicked it, tickled it. kicked it, tickled it, five or six times.
Just about decided to send the whole thing back.

Then I sprayed some starting in the carb and after a couple of kicks to fired up.
Runs like a top, but the proof of the pudding will be to start it up in the morning.

I'm hoping that it will start. Will post with the results.
 

Ragmanx

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Just got back from the shop. Kicked it, tickled it. kicked it, tickled it, five or six times.
Just about decided to send the whole thing back.

Then I sprayed some starting in the carb and after a couple of kicks to fired up.
Runs like a top, but the proof of the pudding will be to start it up in the morning.

I'm hoping that it will start. Will post with the results.
OK, started the bike this morning.
It took about 5 or 6 kicks with tickling before each kick.

After following every ones (much appreciated) advice I'm right back to it being very hard to start.
The only way it starts is with the use of starting fluid
After it starts and warms up it runs perfectly.

It seems it is just not getting any fuel at start up.
I cleaned the pilot ports as best I could, adjusted the float, installed a bigger pilot jet and have to adjusted the air and idle screws. Like I said it runs great after starting and warming up.

While far from perfect it is an original bike with 10K and hasn't been messed with much. Besides the old carb being worn out. it has always ran good. These are good carbs and there must be a solution.

I hate to send this back to CBS or have to use starting fluid..

Does any one have other ideas and I mean any????
 

Fodbin

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OK, started the bike this morning.
It took about 5 or 6 kicks with tickling before each kick.

After following every ones (much appreciated) advice I'm right back to it being very hard to start.
The only way it starts is with the use of starting fluid
After it starts and warms up it runs perfectly.

It seems it is just not getting any fuel at start up.
I cleaned the pilot ports as best I could, adjusted the float, installed a bigger pilot jet and have to adjusted the air and idle screws. Like I said it runs great after starting and warming up.

While far from perfect it is an original bike with 10K and hasn't been messed with much. Besides the old carb being worn out. it has always ran good. These are good carbs and there must be a solution.

I hate to send this back to CBS or have to use starting fluid..

Does any one have other ideas and I mean any????
Hi, I had the same problem, sought advice from more experienced guys.When you tickle the carb, hold down the tickle not pump it and when you see fuel hold for a further 3 seconds, this worked for me
 

grandpaul

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When you tickle the carb, hold down the tickle not pump it and when you see fuel hold for a further 3 seconds...
I would also crack the throttle slightly to hold high revs as soon as it fires, then gradually reduce revs to 1,000 RPM for idle/tickover
 

triumph david

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I do exactly what grandpaul just described every time on my 76 T140V with good results, it starts first kick every time unless its been sitting a very long time then only takes 2 or 3 kicks.
 

Ragmanx

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Thanks, I'll give that a try as soon as new spark plugs arrive.
Steve
 

brooke

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The tickler holds down the float allowing the bowl to fill to overflow and richen up the mixture to where a cold engine on a mild day might start. Especially if you leave the throttles closed in which case the the flap or slide acts as a choke . Between being flooded and choked it should be rich enough that a few kicks should make it fire ,then you can open the throttle slightly . If the idle speed is too fast the extra air allowed through will lean the mixture and make cold starts a pain . Carbs with enricheners probably don’t have choke plates either and also rely the slide to restrict the air volume . Getting snowmobilers to leave the throttle alone when pulling the start cord was always a problem . A 500 cc triple Polaris in a warm showroom could be started by flipping on the enricheners , opening the hood and giving the clutch a partial spin with the sole of your shoe . H 1 Kawasaki 500 triples we’re routinely started with the hand on the kick start , they had very little compression at low rpm . Not so easy with the 750 . On a real cold day at the ice races lots of bikes reguired a rag stuffed in the carb . The skidoo 245 RV had 34 mm VMs with enricheners and a primer . The primer was all that was needed not matter the temperature. 2 strokes were so easy that some sled racers just used a squirt bottle .
 
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