Neglected 1970 Bonneville T120R

Donno455

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Powder coating is the way to go, and i would get new plated bolts/nuts like CarlS said. I don't if you have ever nickel coated anything but that's another avenue that's fun to do.
I have not tackled nickel coating. I'd have to research that. I'm used to chrome plating.
 

triumph david

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Do you mean that you chrome plate your own stuff? I have always wanted to do that myself but have put it off to long, i bet its interesting.
 

Donno455

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Do you mean that you chrome plate your own stuff? I have always wanted to do that myself but have put it off to long, i bet its interesting.
My friend had a setup to chrome plate (chemistry guy). It's more of an art and takes a lot of patience. Plus, the operation looked like a meth lab. I recall light bulbs to provide proper amps, anodes, car batteries, acids, tanks, etc. Plus it can be a dangerous proposition with the fumes from the mixtures.
 

Rocky

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I have a nickel plating kit I got from Caswell and used it with good results.
I leave chrome to the professionals.
 

ChrisAnglophile

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Thanks to the above posters. I will search the threads for resto info as suggested. I am well-aware that the cost for outsourcing work can add-up very quickly!!! The engine appears fairly easy to work on because it's not a complicated, excluding some outsourced machining work. However, I'm sure some might say those are "famous last words". As for the $17.5k to have a shop restore, I'm curious as to a rough breakdown of parts vs. labor because it seems like labor must be a large portion of the cost, but of course I could be wrong.
What ever you do, don't sandblast the Engine Cases if they are dirty. They come with a really tough dark silver finish , from the Casting. They are not like Japanese bikes , or other English bakes. This finish , is unique and very tough. Gives the castings much strength.
Many people , on a restored, simple clean the frame and give it a brush paint. This is fine , because spraying a frame, does waste a lot of Paint.
Replace all Head Stock Bearing with Timkin, taper rollers and don't spare the Grease. Bearing Grease is Best.
Lucas wiring if original, generally needs a good look at, you will understand once you get down to an inspection.
There are plenty of harness makers in England, for the old British Bikes.
This goes for most parts, are available , check out Triumph Owners Clubs in England , there should be Links to Suppliers.
Do a bit of research...
 
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Donno455

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What ever you do, don't sandblast the Engine Cases if they are dirty. They come with a really tough dark silver finish , from the Casting. They are not like Japanese bikes , or other English bakes. This finish , is unique and very tough. Gives the castings much strength.
Many people , on a restored, simple clean the frame and give it a brush paint. This is fine , because spraying a frame, does waste a lot of Paint.
Replace all Head Stock Bearing with Timkin, taper rollers and don't spare the Grease. Bearing Grease is Best.
Lucas wiring if original, generally needs a good look at, you will understand once you get down to an inspection.
There are plenty of harness makers in England, for the old British Bikes.
This goes for most parts, are available , check out Triumph Owners Clubs in England , there should be Links to Suppliers.
Do a bit of research...
Thanks! My biggest hurdle appears to be every nut, bolt, screw is rusted. I will try the transmission fluid / lacquer thinner solution, but just wondering how long to let the solution reside on the bolts/nuts/screws. If my stupid Gmail would allow me to send pics I'd put many up. So frustrating!!!

Plus, does anyone know how to unlatch the seat on the Bonneville? I see a black plastic tab on the right side attached to a spring and what appears to be hinges on the left side (facing forward), but it won't budge and I don't want to force anything. (EDIT) Was able to xfer pics from iCloud.
 

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Donno455

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1970 Bonneville T120R
I know it's not a Porsche site...but here's the "other project" (1974 911) that is NOT rusted tight.. Needless to say I have my hands full for quite some time!!!!
 

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CarlS

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Thanks! My biggest hurdle appears to be every nut, bolt, screw is rusted. I will try the transmission fluid / lacquer thinner solution, but just wondering how long to let the solution reside on the bolts/nuts/screws. If my stupid Gmail would allow me to send pics I'd put many up. So frustrating!!!

Plus, does anyone know how to unlatch the seat on the Bonneville? I see a black plastic tab on the right side attached to a spring and what appears to be hinges on the left side (facing forward), but it won't budge and I don't want to force anything. (EDIT) Was able to xfer pics from iCloud.
On my '68 TR6 Trophy, I have a knob that I pull out to raise the seat. The knob is spring loaded. Love that Porsche!
 
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ChrisAnglophile

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Thanks! My biggest hurdle appears to be every nut, bolt, screw is rusted. I will try the transmission fluid / lacquer thinner solution, but just wondering how long to let the solution reside on the bolts/nuts/screws. If my stupid Gmail would allow me to send pics I'd put many up. So frustrating!!!

Plus, does anyone know how to unlatch the seat on the Bonneville? I see a black plastic tab on the right side attached to a spring and what appears to be hinges on the left side (facing forward), but it won't budge and I don't want to force anything. (EDIT) Was able to xfer pics from iCloud.
I clean up rust using Malawi's, a brown treakel. Mixed 1 : 100 . but wipes out Zinc , beware.
But can take months.
Nuts and bolts. , wire brush on 8 inch bench grinder, only way Mechanical.
But that need treating, with before painting.
U can just send the bits off for Cadmium Plating and leave the cleaning , after oil removal to them.
Or you could buy plating kit from "Jane's Kits" in NSW, Australia. And plate them yourself.
Get Cardboard and Outline every Nut and Bolt including washers.
Triumphs at that time were using BSW, BSF, and UNF and Cycle thread , so its worth measuring everything with Tread Gauges.
 

Donno455

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Riding for 2 Months
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Today, 00:17
Apr 15, 2019
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1970 Bonneville T120R
I clean up rust using Malawi's, a brown treakel. Mixed 1 : 100 . but wipes out Zinc , beware.
But can take months.
Nuts and bolts. , wire brush on 8 inch bench grinder, only way Mechanical.
But that need treating, with before painting.
U can just send the bits off for Cadmium Plating and leave the cleaning , after oil removal to them.
Or you could buy plating kit from "Jane's Kits" in NSW, Australia. And plate them yourself.
Get Cardboard and Outline every Nut and Bolt including washers.
Triumphs at that time were using BSW, BSF, and UNF and Cycle thread , so its worth measuring everything with Tread Gauges.
Thanks regarding rust cleanup. Plus, are there any parts I should avoid getting tranny/acetone on?
On my '68 TR6 Trophy, I have a knob that I pull out to raise the seat. The knob is spring loaded. Love that Porsche!
Thanks! The plastic knob on this one won't budge.
 

CarlS

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Thanks regarding rust cleanup. Plus, are there any parts I should avoid getting tranny/acetone on?

Thanks! The plastic knob on this one won't budge.
I have been using PB Blaster for years on stubborn, seized, and rusted parts. It usually works. Spray it very liberally and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then try working the stubborn part. Gently tap it if you can. Respray and let it sit if ncessary.

43969
 

Donno455

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Hey folks, this may be a stupid question but would it make financial sense to completely disassemble the bike and then send parts out for plating, powder coating, and machining vs. shipping the entire bike to a shop for repair? It seems the cost of labor to remove all the rusted bolts/screws would be half the cost of restoring the bike.
 

CarlS

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My experience is that removing the parts and cleaning them and then sending them out saves money. Be sure you take pics before and during disassembly. It really helps in putting things back together.
 
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ChrisAnglophile

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Thanks regarding rust cleanup. Plus, are there any parts I should avoid getting tranny/acetone on?

Thanks! The plastic knob on this one won't budge.
Yes avoid getting tranny oil and Acetone on anything. !
I know transmission fluid can help shift sludge.
Has been used in two stroke gearboxes , but don't wish to comment.
As I have not used it long term in a two stroke gearbox.