Paddock Stand For Triumph America

Quickie

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Wyboston, Bedfordshire UK
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Ian
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Triumph America
Hi everyone, I’m looking for a paddock stand to fit my Triumph America and I don’t seam to be having a lot for joy. Can anyone give me or tell me what to go for.
Cheers Quickie
 

Jackal

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Alex Norris
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2009 Speed master
Hi everyone, I’m looking for a paddock stand to fit my Triumph America and I don’t seam to be having a lot for joy. Can anyone give me or tell me what to go for.
Cheers Quickie
1613344402775.png
Here is one at New Bonneville out of Texas.
 

Jackal

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Alex Norris
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Hi everyone, I’m looking for a paddock stand to fit my Triumph America and I don’t seam to be having a lot for joy. Can anyone give me or tell me what to go for.
Cheers Quickie
1613346742415.png
This is one from custom cruisers in the UK they have pretty good customer service if you have issues with the product.
 

Hurtle

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Peter
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2011 America (aka Roy)
FWIW - I haven't gone the permanent centre stand route because I'll only need it for servicing (oil/filter change, chain maintenance). So, I made one out of scrap steel for a $0/1 hour investment. Only new part was 300mm of 10mm threaded rod for a mounting point on the bike. Saves unnecessary excess running weight, too. Please pardon the crappy welding. Design available on request. (Mind you, I'm re-designing at the moment to make it less "agricultural".)
 

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Moss

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Triumph America
Hi Quickie,
I use a rolling hydraulic jack under the frame but in earlier days I used a wooden block screwed to a 4ft wooden lever bar to jack the rear wheel off the ground. Its cheap, its a one man job and it works every time.
 

Mvander

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FWIW - I haven't gone the permanent centre stand route because I'll only need it for servicing (oil/filter change, chain maintenance). So, I made one out of scrap steel for a $0/1 hour investment. Only new part was 300mm of 10mm threaded rod for a mounting point on the bike. Saves unnecessary excess running weight, too. Please pardon the crappy welding. Design available on request. (Mind you, I'm re-designing at the moment to make it less "agricultural".)
 

Mvander

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Mark
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07 Speedmaster
FWIW - I haven't gone the permanent centre stand route because I'll only need it for servicing (oil/filter change, chain maintenance). So, I made one out of scrap steel for a $0/1 hour investment. Only new part was 300mm of 10mm threaded rod for a mounting point on the bike. Saves unnecessary excess running weight, too. Please pardon the crappy welding. Design available on request. (Mind you, I'm re-designing at the moment to make it less "agricultural".)
How does the stand sit under the bike. B keen to see some underneath photos
 

Hurtle

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Peter
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2011 America (aka Roy)
The America’s has lugs at look like they’re designed for fitting a centre stand. I used a length of threaded 10mm (3/8 inch) rod with washers and nylock nuts on each end. It’s just visible in the photo taken from the right hand side looking down. (20200409_162826-jpg.49223/)
Below the bend in the brake line.
 

Hurtle

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2011 America (aka Roy)
Might be easier to see in this shot.
 

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sikatri

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Dunstall makes a similar one, I bought one for my Thruxton. Yours works so you saved a bunch of money. LoL.0F729937-B5FC-4A36-A41A-E845A19C930A.jpeg4EB948C1-DDD6-427E-B81F-D402F9C44EE2.jpeg3C9BC9CF-F156-4EFD-A8B1-23E0ED5E8026.jpeg
 

sikatri

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Any chance of getting some dimensions for this stand?
I can measure mine today. I’ll do a hand drawn sketch with dimensions. I’ll post it by this evening.
 

Hurtle

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Peter
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2011 America (aka Roy)
Told you the welding was ordinary! Dimensions from memory. I have my design drawings somewhere and will post exact measurements when I find them!
Base is a piece of 4" pipe - 500mm long. Uprights 1" square - 210mm. Lifting lever (fixed) also 1" square - 400mm. Crossbar is 13mm (1/2") pipe with a 10mm (3/8") groove cut along its length, which is also 210mm - the groove is at the top of the stand. You need to have a free/floating release bar to enable you to slip it under the bike from the left hand side and engage the 3/8" rod I mentioned earlier into the groove and avoid it slipping out. The "release latch" is simply a piece of 2"x2" angle welded to the end of the base on the opposite side to the lifting lever at the correct angle. A couple of strategically placed 2"x1" chain links stop the release lever (an old wheel nut wrench with the socket removed) from slipping while lowering the bike but will allow it to detach once it's done its job. All foot operated and works like a charm, despite its looks.
 

Hurtle

Member
Riding for 44 Years
Local time
Today, 12:56
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
57
Points
17
Age
62
Location
Camperdown
First Name
Peter
My Ride
2011 America (aka Roy)
BTW - where are you, Mvander? I'm SW Vic.
 

Hurtle

Member
Riding for 44 Years
Local time
Today, 12:56
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
57
Points
17
Age
62
Location
Camperdown
First Name
Peter
My Ride
2011 America (aka Roy)
Couldn’t find my design drawings, so measured it.
Base pipe - 3” dia, 24” long
Uprights - 1” sq, 6” long
Crosspipe - 1/2” pipe 7 1/4” (185mm) long with 3/8” (10mm) slot cut full length on the top side.
Raising lever/Standing rest - 1” sq, 12” long at approx 12.5 deg offset from Uprights
Lowering lever is any piece of rod that you can find - it is removable.
Lowering latch is 2”x2” angle at approx 15 deg opposite to raising lever, with one chain link to anchor the lowering lever and another beside it to stop it from slipping off when lowering. I reckon you could use 2”x1” steel - with a plate welded on the end that has an appropriately sized hole (slightly larger dia than your release lever).
I used 3/8” threaded rod between the lugs on the frame that look to be there for fitment of a centre stand and used nylock nuts to secure it. You could use a bolt at each end extending an inch or two in from the outside.
I saw this as a challenge to design and make something that I needed, rather than go out and buy something (tried that!) that didn’t fit. Success is so satisfying - even though it’s ugly as sin.
1623485655689.jpeg1623485590093.jpeg1623485520846.jpeg
 

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