Putting on high handle bars

Snakesfield

Ex-Member
Local time
Yesterday, 23:07
Joined
Oct 5, 2018
Messages
261
Points
57
Location
CA.
First Name
Rick
My Ride
2018 Triumph Bobber
I bought a set of OEM triumph high bars, along with OEM extended high handles risers, bolts, washers and the Triumph OEM high bar wiring and cables too. Off of eBay, brand new also. For 216.00 bucks, a while back. I've since put them on. But at first, it was a real nightmare. I went to several shops, to see if they could do the change. Because, the dealer wanted 400.00 bucks, to make the change. I even looked at YouTube for help. It was a total waste of my time. So I decided, that if I can work on HD's. Then this shouldn't be a problem. Except for, I don't have any metric tools. But my sister and her husband do. So, I went over there to their house and proceeded to make the change, there. It went pretty smoothly. The main thing was taking the gas tank off. Then, taking off the hand controls, then changing out the clutch cable, I also changed out the throttle cable, which just screws into the fuel injection port and to the throttle { note: use teflon tape on the threads } so that you get a solid seal. Then, I changed out the risers and put the high bars on. then the rest was under the gas tank, which was just changing out stock cables, with the new cables. That just clip into place, same as the others were, but longer. Then I put the gas tank back on and I added a couple black thick tie raps, in sutan places, where I felt that they should be. I really dig those rubber reusable raps a lot. The very last thing was bleeding the front brakes. What the dealer said would take four hours. It only took me two and a 1/2 hours. Once you include the front brake bleeding. But it wasn't hard at all. If you have any mechanical experience, it's fairly easy. But what sold me on doing it myself, was that 400.00 bucks, that dealer tried to charge me. Come Christmas time, I'm spending over a grand on craftsman tools. Along with a good torque wrench too. I also ordered that Triumph shop manual and it cost me 200.00 bucks. But worth every penny. I've never like Haynes that much. So, I just bought the shop manual from Triumph. Next is that coder reader, that cost around 1,200 bucks. But it tells you exactly what's wrong with your bike and how to repair it. It and also can reset that ten thousand mile maintenance key, that pops on, at every ten thousand miles. I've decided that since It's my bike, That I should do all the work on it. Because, since it mine. I'll do a better job fixing it right, than some paid mechanic that has nothing invested in it, except a work order. Anyway that IMO
 
Glad you got 'er done.
Something satisfying about doing a job right with some TLC.
Like you said, some mechanic does NOT put he extra into doing the best he can, cause there's another bike waiting to be fixed
 
Good job with the bars TUP
You're no stranger to wrenches so I'm not at all surprised that you were able to do it.
It's always a great feeling of satisfaction to do a job yourself - and learning about the bike as you're doing it.
 
I agree, with you guys 100%. Plus, I'll know, that I did it right also. I can't believe that the dealer wanted to charge me 400.00 bucks, for any easy change, like that. Once, I buy that code reader, that's going to cost me a lot of money. But it does everything, including upgrades from Triumph, along with resetting the computer for the next 10,000 miles to come around again. I also ordered the Triumph shop and parts manual for 400.00 bucks. That takes all the power from them and puts it, into my hands then. Once, I buy that little toy. Which I am I am too. I'm never going to let another dealership rip me off, on maintenance issues, ever again. Until I need a rebuild, which I have friends that have everything, that I need to do a tear down. Balance the flywheels, clean everything down with the parts cleaner, in the part tray, then a bead blaster, along with everything, that I'll need. I'll repaint the jugs, take the cases in and have them polished out real pretty like. Try and find a bigger gas tank, by then. I take very good care of my stuff, by keeping it garaged. So, I don't see this happening for a long time. By that time, Triumph should have bigger gas tanks, for the Bobbers. But who knows? There will be aftermarket gas tanks that will work though. That, I know for sure. Because, as popular as the Bobber have become. They will start making aftermarket parts for the bobber soon. Just like HD and Honda does. So, that people won't have to pay those incredible, high prices from greedy Triumph. That wants an arm and a leg for their parts. I always expect dealers to stick it to you, when it comes to parts and labor, anyway. Which, I refuse to pay and go along with, just to be ripped off. I can use a mill, a lath, drill presses, and I know how to sleeve cylinders too. When that time does comes. I'll rebuild my own engine. So that way, I know that it's a very reliable, faster too, with that TEC cam upgrade, that I'm going to do. Along with any other upgrades, That I'll make to the bike. To make it, so that it's a very reliable cruiser. Along, with being able to get around town very easily, also. After I get that code reader, I'll never see another dealership again! They can kiss my behind too. Except, for some engine parts, that I may have to buy from Triumph. Otherwise, I never want to see another dealership, ever again. I've had it with dealerships. Just IMO.
 
Feed that engine lots of fresh oil and filters and you won't be needing an engine rebuild for a very, very long time.
That's the last thing I would worry about. Ride and enjoy it for many years to come TUP
 
Feed that engine lots of fresh oil and filters and you won't be needing an engine rebuild for a very, very long time.
That's the last thing I would worry about. Ride and enjoy it for many years to come TUP
I use the Amsoil Metric 10-40 full synthetic oil and Amsoil Filters and do my change once a year or every ten thousand miles. like the manual says. The oil is good for twenty five thousand and their filters are good for fifteen thousand miles. So, I do a full on change at every ten thousand miles with filter and oil. I've been looking for a good code reader though and reset tool. For my change oil light wrench. Because, the dealership charges sixty bucks, to reset it and run a code diagnostics check. So, I'm buying this device called The Dealer Tool. Which will read the codes, help with the repairs and reset that check engine oil wrench lite. It will still come on every ten thousand miles, but at lest after I do my oil change and a diagnostics run and make sure all is good and updated, anything that needs to be updated. I will be able to go, for another ten thousand miles. But the device also, runs the codes and updates everything too. It also tells me what I need to do to fix it, if there's a problem. It will save me a lot of money, in the long run. Because, It will be able to run the same checks, that the dealers computer can run. I just hook it up to my laptop and to the computer cable on the bike, put in the key it, turn everything on, { but do not start the bike } then use the key that they will give me, to open the system, read all the codes and do a diagnostics on the bike, along with any upgrades. For me to download, to get her up and going again. All for a hundred bucks. Which in the long run, will pay for it self, in no time at all. I'm so fed up with these greedy dealerships. Just wanting you, to shell out more money, that you don't really have, to part with. Anyway, that's my new toy, that I'm buying on the 6th of July.
 
I just bought that Dealer Tool for 95.00 bucks. Now I don't have to go to the dealerships anymore, to have them turn off that oil wrench lite, when if it pops on and I can reset it myself now. I can also run my own diagnostics now also. Plus, I can fix any problems myself. So, the dealerships can't rip me off, for anymore money.
 
I got to thinking about when I changed out my handlebars, for the high bars, which I must say is a lot more comfortable, for me anyway. But now that I think back on it. It was hard at all, but it was time consuming. It took me, along with my brother in law who mainly just helped me bleed the front brake. While I did all the work. But we agreed on that from the start, Because he has the metric tools that I needed, to get the job done with. But, man it did take me, about three and a half hours to get it done. Just by have to remove things to get to what you need to get to. But once you do the connections and start putting her back together and bleed the front brake. Then I took her out for a ride and I did a really good job. Plus I did all the work my seIf too. I know I did a better job than, they would have done and would have changed me four hundred bucks too. Just for just the labor on the handlebars. The OEM handlebars, and the OEM wiring. I got off eBay, for a hundred and sixteen bucks. Triumph wants damn near, four hundred bucks, for all that. So there was no way that I was going to let them charge me that much money for labor. Then they try and tell you oh, it can get really hard and tricky. It's not hard at all, it was just time consuming. But worth saving four hundred bucks on Same thing with the forward controls also. I meant to write this, when I did the change. The forward controls are pretty much the same. There easy to do yourself, and they come adjusted too. Really, all you have got to do, is just put hem on. You really start feeling one with the bike too. Plus for me anyway, just the pride of doing it myself, gave me an extra closeness with the bike. it was kind of a Zin thing for me too. There's just something about doing your own work, that's really satisfying. Plus, you know that it's done right also.
 
A job well done TUP
It may have taken a few hours to accomplish, but it's not something you do very often.
You took your time and did it right. Good for you.
 
I sprung for the shop to do mine simply because the bike was still under warranty. If anything went wrong with the bike afterwards they couldn't say I'd voided the warranty by doing the work myself. After October it will be all me. Where were you able to get a hold of the full service guide Snake?
 
I sprung for the shop to do mine simply because the bike was still under warranty. If anything went wrong with the bike afterwards they couldn't say I'd voided the warranty by doing the work myself. After October it will be all me. Where were you able to get a hold of the full service guide Snake?
Sorry about that. I should have gotten back with you sooner. But, I got up this morning and it was already toasty outside, so I got dressed and had a cup of some of the strongest coffee, that I've ever had. I swear that coffee would: { Bring a dead man back to life }.
Then, I went out to the garage and I looked at my bike and it looked lonely. So then, I through on a black tee shirt and I just had to go for a ride. This morning, from 8:00 AM and I didn't get back until around 7:00 PM. Man, did I have a fun day. I really love those new bars and forward controls. Anyway back to your question? I didn't use a manual. I just ordered one from Triumph { A Triumph Shop Manual } and it cost me two hundred bucks too. But, since I do all my own maintenance now. I figure that the sop manual, along with that DealerTool, is just what I needed. To be more self reliant and in doing my own maintenance. Along with a good set of metric tools and look out! Anyway, back to the story, I just followed those, two cables. The clutch cable and the brake cable. What's really cool though, is everything just snaps into place too. Then, I followed the cables, to see where they went. and the rest is right under the tank and the clutch cable, is right at the end of the clutch cable. It's all outside the cases and easy to get to. Just follow the cables and you'll see what I'm talking about. As a matter of fact, I never even took the tank off the bike. I just put a bunch of towels around the seat and tank and moved it out of the way and I also made sure that it was stable too. It's just time consuming, that's what I found out. Because, to get to this, you have to remove that. Then it's all, pretty easy and straightforward. I didn't even have to miss with the clutch cable adjustment. it was that easy, except for bleeding the brakes. Which again is time consuming but well worth it. But we got it done and I fell just to darn good about it. That I did, what they wanted to charge me four hundred bucks to do, I did myself for free. Just by using some of my own time. Plus, I can still work on my own bike. I fill really good about it too and proud of myself, for doing my own work. Also, take pictures of the things that you are going to be removing, so you'll know were, they go back on to. Good luck and let me know how it turns out. If you need any help, I'm here for you.
 
I sprung for the shop to do mine simply because the bike was still under warranty. If anything went wrong with the bike afterwards they couldn't say I'd voided the warranty by doing the work myself. After October it will be all me. Where were you able to get a hold of the full service guide Snake?
From the dealership. They don't like to sell them. But they have too and mine cost me 200.00 bucks. But they are so much better than a Haynes manual. Which contains some bunk info, in those things. Where the Triumph shop manual is so much better. Like with shimming of cam shafts. Haynes isn't going to be able to give you the exact spec's, like the shop manual is. For me, it's worth paying the two hundred bucks for, along with a parts manual. Figure another two hundred bucks for that one too.
 
I still need a set of torque wrenches. That's next on my list of things to buy. I'm not buying them from Harbor Freight either. I'm going with Craftsman mainly, because it's a good tool, for a good price. I'd prefer to buy Snap-On or Mac, if I can find them still. Those are some good wrenches, there. But, Craftsman is still a good and affordable tool. I don't buy from Harbor Freight! Because, I don't like Asin steel. I think that their tools are cheaply made. They're what I like to call, a good disposable tool. But nothing, that I'm going to buy and keep in my garage, for serous maintenance though, is coming from Harbor Freight. But that's just IMO
 
I still need a set of torque wrenches. That's next on my list of things to buy. I'm not buying them from Harbor Freight either. I'm going with Craftsman mainly, because it's a good tool, for a good price. I'd prefer to buy Snap-On or Mac, if I can find them still. Those are some good wrenches, there. But, Craftsman is still a good and affordable tool. I don't buy from Harbor Freight! Because, I don't like Asin steel. I think that their tools are cheaply made. They're what I like to call, a good disposable tool. But nothing, that I'm going to buy and keep in my garage, for serous maintenance though, is coming from Harbor Freight. But that's just IMO
I agree with you.
 
Another eight hours of fun riding and general mischief today. it wasn't as hot today, as it was yesterday. I went up to Jackson had lunch and then came back home the scenic route by taking 120 thru Oakdale, then south on geer road about thirty minutes, to get home. But what a nice ride today. I love my black filly. She really likes to cruise around 65 to 70 miles per hour these days to. With 65 miles an hour as, her favorite cruising speed, down the highway these days. Since I changed out the handlebars and put on the forward controls, my bike has become more of a cruiser now days, instead of a bar hopper and a riding in the hills bike. The feel of the bike is just so different now, than before I did the upgrades. It's very comfortable to ride. I'm 6ft4 and I weight around 180 pounds. It's just so comfortable to ride. I can still take those conners to. I just have to downshift a lot more, to do it correctly, while using that front brake as my main stopping power. Which I've gotten used to now. I'm on vacation right now. The state of California is giving me twenty hours of vacation time. Because, I'm my mother's caregiver, and I needed a break really badly. I found out, that the state of California gives caregivers like me a 100 hours a year, of vacation time. To get away, relax and come back sane. So that I can keep on taking care of her and not go nuts, in the proses. So, I've been getting in as much riding time in, as I can. While I've got this time, to do it. Tomorrow is my last day, So I'm going to make the most out of it and go all over hell and half of Georgia, tomorrow or maybe just Santa Cruz.
 
Great to hear that the change worked out so well TUP
 
Glad to hear your mods are working out well and you are having good rides. Enjoy!
 
I just got my Dealertool the other day. So, I have my last dealership appointment tomorrow, to run their 10,000 mile computer, check up, to turn off that wrench lite, and check for any updates. I changed out my oil last week. I'm having to buy a PC laptop, that runs windows 10 off of eBay. Because, my computers are all Mac's and the Dealertool doesn't work with Macs. Only on PC 's and windows 7,8,8.1, and 10. So, I'm going for either a Dell or an Acer laptop, off of eBay. Then, I won't be seeing my Triumph dealership, for quite a while. Now, that I have that Dealertool and it only cost me 99.00 bucks. I've still got to buy some more metric tools though. But I'm almost there. Then those greedy dealerships can kiss me, were the sun doesn't shine. Why should I pay them to do something, that I can do myself. I can use a lath, drill press and run a mill also. I can get my OEM parts, a lot cheaper now also. So, why do I need the dealership for? When I can do it all myself? I found all this out, just by doing a little research. But it was worth it.
 
Because, my computers are all Mac's and the Dealertool doesn't work with Macs.

You can run Windows programs on a Mac. I do, but I don't use Bootcamp or Parallels. I use a utility called Crossover that runs Windows programs. Here is a link to learn more:

Crossover
 
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