Restoring & Modifying 1971 OIF TR120

[NM Bonny]

The Morgo 750cc kit arrived from England. I won't be cracking open the engine for some time (if my luck holds), so I figured I'd just strip the packaging down to the grease paper to feel if the fins were intact. Seems fine.

They appear to have packed it with the pistons, wrist pins, and rings installed. I assume everything is well-oiled to prevent rust.

Hmmm... maybe I should open it up and inspect everything, re-oil, and pack it away in plastic...?

 

[Rudie]

Morgo 750cc kit
figured I'd just strip the packaging down to the grease paper to feel if the fins were intact. Seems fine.
They appear to have packed it with the pistons, wrist pins, and rings installed. I assume everything is well-oiled to prevent rust.
maybe I should open it up and inspect everything, re-oil, and pack it away in plastic...?

Ime, the grease paper is not adhesive, I would open it up carefully and check "everything is "well-oiled"; if it is, I would simply wrap everything back up in the grease paper and put in a large plastic bag; as the kit's heavy, then maybe inside a box packed out with plastic 'packing chips'? If kit parts are already oiled, I cannot see the point of "re-oil"?

 

[NM Bonny]

Ime, the grease paper is not adhesive, I would open it up carefully and check "everything is "well-oiled"; if it is, I would simply wrap everything back up in the grease paper and put in a large plastic bag; as the kit's heavy, then maybe inside a box packed out with plastic 'packing chips'? If kit parts are already oiled, I cannot see the point of "re-oil"?

Thank for this, Rudie. I'll follow your advice. I'd hate to open it months (or years) later, only to find an issue.

 

[Rudie]

hate to open it months (or years) later, only to find an issue.

Parts bought to be stored for the future, having checked they are preserved as I like for the material types, I check them again maybe once a year or so to ensure no deterioration due to something unforeseen. No religiously set period, just maybe a slow day when it is cold and/or raining outside and the alternative is "honey-dos" I don't ...

 

[sikatri]

Good advice @Rudie !

 

[NM Bonny]

Well, my enthusiasm for sanding and polishing aluminum is nearing its end. This photo shows something like two full days' work to get the hub to this stage: rough (dry) sanding done, and the first step in wet sanding (400 grit). My fingertips are bleeding, I've got no fingerprints, my hands ache...

I was able to do a small amount of mechanical sanding on this part, but not much without changing radii and altering the look of what is to my mind among the neatest OEM bits on a '71-'72 OIF Bonny.

Anyway, I think it'll be worth it in the end, and I need to get this bike down off the stand. It's growing chilly at night here at 6,000 ft, and I want this old machine running before first snowfall! GoPro chest-mount videos of rides through NM's high desert backroads!

 

[sikatri]

Good work!

 

[CarlS]

That looks really good!

 

[grandpaul]

Time's a wasting!

Nice progress...

 

[NM Bonny]

Well, as Hercule Poirot would say, "satisfactory."

As you can see, far from perfect but sufficient to carry the bike's paint-and-polished aluminum aesthetic back to the rear wheel. I think the 'before and after' photo demonstrates that it was worth doing. I just didn't like the damaged and oxidized aluminum bits with the fresh paint and new exhaust system...

The backing plate can take more mechanical sanding due to its fairly flat surface. But I'll be giving my hands a break from sanding/polishing while lacing the wheel and making the custom aluminum drum stop strut, etc.

Hope to have her back on her wheels next week, then it's on to the primary case and (with luck) a test ride before first snowfall.

Hmmm... I'm thinking of using chrome acorn nuts with locktite on the chain ring bolts, rather than the clunky-looking standard lock nuts. Might look cool...

 

[sikatri]

Looks awesome to me!

 

[NM Bonny]

Request for help...

I've erased the original post--and when you look at the photos you'll see why.

I had tried to lace both the inner and outer spokes from the inside of the flange. It now occurs to me that perhaps the outers should be laced so that they emerge from the outer side of the flange. That is, the outers should be inserted from the inside out, not the outside in as I have done.

Is that correct?

 

[NM Bonny]

Yes, that's got to be it. Sorry for the wasted posts...

 

[sikatri]

Yes, that's got to be it. Sorry for the wasted posts...

There’s never a wasted post. Perhaps sometimes a new one to correct or clarify.

 

[NM Bonny]

Thanks for that. I agree.

Looks like I'll have it trued and, if time permits, the new rubber on the wheel this week.

 

[NM Bonny]

Okay, she's finally down on the new wheels and tires, so I thought I wash her for the first time since I sprayed the paint...

Now, all that's left is the primary case & clutch inspection with 3-phase alternator upgrade plus new tranny sprocket, reinstall the Boyer Bransden ignition, adjust the valves, set the carburetor floats, add oil and gas and go over the 'awakening the sleeping beast' checklist...

I think I'll make it this riding season!

 

[NM Bonny]

Does anyone have anything to add or modify on the Waking the Sleeping Beast procedure, in view of its application to triples? It seems fairly complete to me....

 

[Rudie]

anything to add or modify on the Waking the Sleeping Beast procedure, in view of its application to triples?

Twin, reduce the amount of oil into the crankcase, only about 1.5 US pints?

Initial fill, whether triple or twin, I do not put in the total recommended amount between the crankcase and the frame or oil tank; I put in 1/2 to 1 pint less. I check the oil level in frame or tank after the first run, top up then if necessary.

 

[NM Bonny]

All rightee then...

First, no clearance issues with the Bridgestone Battlax BT46 in 4.00-18. Indeed, it clears the chain guard, aftermarket chrome, but roughly patterned on OEM piece (which has new paint on it and is for sale cheap).

Second, the clutch basket and primary chain look suspiciously like they've been replaced. (The clutch held well and released easily with one kick when holding in the lever.) There is some wear on the front duplex sprocket but it's not bad, and the chain looks decent, so I'm inclined to run it as is.

I will stick my inspection camera in from underneath to look at the tranny sprocket, as it wasn't leaking from the seal...

Well, hmmm... I bought a 20T, 57-1919 version to bring down highway rpms just a touch. I think Speedrattle was recommending that change in combination with my stock rear chain ring...? Isn't the OEM version 19 teeth? I guess that I could try marking a tooth and rotating the tranny sprocket to see if the PO installed a 20T...

Therefore, the tranny sprocket aside, and unless I'm badly judging the serviceability of these parts, I think I may just R&R the alternator stator with my 3-phase upgrade and seal the thing back up. Any thoughts upon examining these photos?

Note: the clutch adjustment screws are unevenly tightened - one is farther out than the other two. But shouldn't I kick the thing a few times to see if the pressure plate is aligned? I seem to recall that it isn't the threads showing but the alignment that matters...?

 

[NM Bonny]

Well, rats. Although the primary chain and related teeth appear relatively new, I did the alternator rotor test people had recommended--without loosening the bolt--and indeed there is significant movement back and forth radially. So I had to order a new rotor.

Also, I counted the teeth on the tranny sprocket and it's a 19T. So, I ordered up new inner and outer oil seals, and will install my 20T sprocket to lower highway rpms a touch.

I guess the upside is that after I repack the clutch basket rollers, inspect the plates, install the new sprocket and seals, I'll know everything's copasetic.