Rickman Triumph Project

Sundance

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Age
69
Location
Arlington, VA
First Name
Brian
My Ride
formerly Bultaco Pursang and 2009 BMW K1300S
I recently acquired a Rickman Metisse, MK 3 frame and some other of the parts, bodywork from Rickman. This frame has a 2009 date, and along with the frame I've got a 1967 T120R engine that was recently rebuilt, and a TR6 single carb head that is newly refurbished. I'll soon be getting around to putting this together and appreciate any inmates with experience with this sort of thing to chime in. Thanks!

The engine I have for my Rickman build was recently rebuilt, well a few years ago - then run briefly - then taken out of a Triumph “Chopper” and sold to the PO from whom I purchased it. It is a 1967 T120R motor. May last build was a 1967 motor but had a few differences I hope some inmates can help me sort before I go too far. I have a single carb head for this, newly refurbished.

So, first thing is the stator wire comes out of the primary case differently than my other build. Rather than coming out of the top of the case, it comes out centrally and drops down through the area where the drive sprocket is housed. So, I am wondering the best way to route this back up to the top, where I’ll have an electronic ignition.

Secondly, in the primary inspection hole/oil fill hole, the PO has this interesting device assembled, that is a valve of sorts. I’m wondering the purpose/utility of this device.
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Thank you for your advice and comments.
 
What a beautiful frame. A flat track guy at the Triumph store in Gainesville, FL once loaned me his while my TR-6 was in the shop back in 1971. That bike would lift up the front wheel at will. I'm sure you know fiberglass tank and ethanol don't go well together but I believe there are still a few stations that serve the boating community that have ethanol free fuel. Can't wait to see how this build progresses!
 
Thanks JerryP. I have heard that about ethanol and will have some difficulty getting it near where I live - but will find it somehow. I've been looking more closely at my donor motor, which I thought I'd not have to take apart. However the crankcase venting has been altered a bit and because of this I will probably have to at least split the cases to see if this motor is still using the rotary breather run off the intake cam. The previous owner had the vent pipe blocked, and then on the primary cover oil fill hole has some kind of valve installed - I suppose for the venting. I was fortunate to get in touch with the Rickman shop in the UK, and they are making me a rear axle for the BSA quick change hub I have, otherwise I'd have to find somebody locally and explain the process, so I am pleased with this. Do you still have your TR-6?
 
These are the piston tops on my T120R engine. Is it possible to identify them from these top markings? Thanks.

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Seems the new Triumph Street Scrambler is the closest replacement to the long ago TR-6C, a bit too heavy but ride is very close to the original concept.
 
Splitting the cases: So this 67 engine I have has a few problems. One, the 3 small holes drilled in the primary side case are in the wrong position, too low to do what they are supposed to do. Two, the original breather tube, which exits at the bottom of the engine has been plugged, and it looks like the PO put some substance in the pipe so it will need to be drilled out probably. Three, I'm not sure if there is a rotary breather disc on the inlet cam, that is the original breather system. I think the PO thought he could plug this, drill his 3 holes and then have the primary breath out of a vent on the primary oil fill hole.

When I got this engine I didn't think I needed
to take it apart but I think I do now, at least some bits. So the primary cover is off and I just took off the cylinder. So everything inside looks pretty decent, new even. There are barely any wear marks on the cams, followers, and the cylinders and pistons are clean.

My big question is this, Can I take off the primary side of the cases, that is by removing the stator, clutch, duplex chain, etc, and pull the cases apart, without needing to do the same to the timing side? Can I keep the pistons, cams and all in place in order for me to see if the rotary breather is installed? Then I would be able to plug the 3 holes drilled in the sase incorrectly, drill out the original drain pipe tube, and reassemble the cases (all without disturbing the timing side and keeping the cams in place, etc?

This is the second engine I have worked on so I know I am missing something here. If this can't be accomplished correctly then I'll take the whole thing apart.

Thank you for any advice!
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Splitting the cases: So this 67 engine I have has a few problems. One, the 3 small holes drilled in the primary side case are in the wrong position, too low to do what they are supposed to do. Two, the original breather tube, which exits at the bottom of the engine has been plugged, and it looks like the PO put some substance in the pipe so it will need to be drilled out probably. Three, I'm not sure if there is a rotary breather disc on the inlet cam, that is the original breather system. I think the PO thought he could plug this, drill his 3 holes and then have the primary breath out of a vent on the primary oil fill hole.

When I got this engine I didn't think I needed
to take it apart but I think I do now, at least some bits. So the primary cover is off and I just took off the cylinder. So everything inside looks pretty decent, new even. There are barely any wear marks on the cams, followers, and the cylinders and pistons are clean.

My big question is this, Can I take off the primary side of the cases, that is by removing the stator, clutch, duplex chain, etc, and pull the cases apart, without needing to do the same to the timing side? Can I keep the pistons, cams and all in place in order for me to see if the rotary breather is installed? Then I would be able to plug the 3 holes drilled in the sase incorrectly, drill out the original drain pipe tube, and reassemble the cases (all without disturbing the timing side and keeping the cams in place, etc?

This is the second engine I have worked on so I know I am missing something here. If this can't be accomplished correctly then I'll take the whole thing apart.

Thank you for any advice!
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Yo, Sundance; is that tappet guide block slightly rotated off center-line? Or is it just the angle of the photo? Mebbe take a gander and fix that if it is off center. It could cause yer bike to suddenly go nuke-yooler.
 
Thanks JerryP. I have heard that about ethanol and will have some difficulty getting it near where I live - but will find it somehow. I've been looking more closely at my donor motor, which I thought I'd not have to take apart. However the crankcase venting has been altered a bit and because of this I will probably have to at least split the cases to see if this motor is still using the rotary breather run off the intake cam. The previous owner had the vent pipe blocked, and then on the primary cover oil fill hole has some kind of valve installed - I suppose for the venting. I was fortunate to get in touch with the Rickman shop in the UK, and they are making me a rear axle for the BSA quick change hub I have, otherwise I'd have to find somebody locally and explain the process, so I am pleased with this. Do you still have your TR-6?
Yo, Sundance; fuel for snowmobiles and chain saws and the like TYPICALLY is premium-grade and has no ethanol contained therein. It costs lots more cash, but hey, it's only money, right?
 
My big question is this, Can I take off the primary side of the cases, that is by removing the stator, clutch, duplex chain, etc, and pull the cases apart, without needing to do the same to the timing side? Can I keep the pistons, cams and all in place in order for me to see if the rotary breather is installed?
Sundance; looking at an exploded (no pun intended) view of the cases, it looks like you can split them and leave the timing-side intact. I see no nuts on the crank drive-side that hold it or the cams in position. Same with the gearbox if you remove the sprocket nut. It can't hurt to try. The only advantage to complete disassembly is you then KNOW the condition of ALL yer parts and can have confidence in yer engine, thereby.
 
Sundance; looking at an exploded (no pun intended) view of the cases, it looks like you can split them and leave the timing-side intact. I see no nuts on the crank drive-side that hold it or the cams in position. Same with the gearbox if you remove the sprocket nut. It can't hurt to try. The only advantage to complete disassembly is you then KNOW the condition of ALL yer parts and can have confidence in yer engine, thereby.
Lordmac, thanks for all the input, on gas, case splitting, and on the tappet block. I took a closer look at the block and I am pretty sure you are correct, it is slightly off! Wow, I suppose it is good this engine supposedly wasn't run much.Great catch from a photo! So with that, and the other issues I have noticed - makes is a no-brainer that I'd better take this thing totally apart to make sure it is right. Thank you!
 
tappet guide block slightly rotated off center-line?
fix that if it is off center.
input
on the tappet block. I took a closer look at the block and I am pretty sure you are correct, it is slightly off! Wow,
Before randomly "fixing" any tappet block apparently "rotated off center-line", check the alignment of the lobe centrelines of the relevant camshaft. Ideally, the lobe centrelines are precisely 180 degrees apart; practically ... Far from causing an engine "to suddenly go nuke-yooler", rotating the tappet block, and therefore the tappets, has always been a way of compensating for cam lobe centrelines not exactly 180 degrees apart.

Btw, to check the cam lobes' centrelines accurately, you will have to take it out of both crankcases? :cool:
 
Before randomly "fixing" any tappet block apparently "rotated off center-line", check the alignment of the lobe centrelines of the relevant camshaft. Ideally, the lobe centrelines are precisely 180 degrees apart; practically ... Far from causing an engine "to suddenly go nuke-yooler", rotating the tappet block, and therefore the tappets, has always been a way of compensating for cam lobe centrelines not exactly 180 degrees apart.

Btw, to check the cam lobes' centrelines accurately, you will have to take it out of both crankcases? :cool:
As usual, Rudie has . . . the rest of the story. Good advise! But remember; one must take all precautions as far as "nuke-yooler" goes. Don't ever want to go "nuke-yooler".
 
Before randomly "fixing" any tappet block apparently "rotated off center-line", check the alignment of the lobe centrelines of the relevant camshaft. Ideally, the lobe centrelines are precisely 180 degrees apart; practically ... Far from causing an engine "to suddenly go nuke-yooler", rotating the tappet block, and therefore the tappets, has always been a way of compensating for cam lobe centrelines not exactly 180 degrees apart.

Btw, to check the cam lobes' centrelines accurately, you will have to take it out of both crankcases? :cool:
OK Thanks Rudie. So I am trying to figure out how rotating the tappet block would resolve a problem with the cam lobes not being 180 degrees apart. Is it the case that one would therefore rotate the block so that one tappet contacts the cam lobe a bit sooner, the other a bit later, therefore making up to the less/more than 180 degrees of the cam lobes? Wouldn't there be a problem with the tappet contacting the cam lobe a bit off center? Or would this be minimal because of the curved surfaces of both tappet and cam lobe? Thanks if you can help explain this.
 
Disassembling the engine. So I started to take this engine apart. It looks like some of the parts are good/ok and some are not. Lots of bunged up screws and bolts and some curious stuff too.
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First off I’m wondering if I can re-use the pistons. They are clean and seem relatively new and apparently are standard. I don’t have a lot of experience evaluating this. I see on the piston skirts there is some wear and don’t know if this is normal or what. Here are some photos.
 
Now onto the cylinder. It actually looks relatively new. I measured it with a caliper (I know this is not the most accurate) and it both cam to just over 70mm, which I believe is a standard bore? Also, it looks like the motor wasn’t run much because the cylinder cross hatching is still a bit visible. So I am wondering if this is good to go as is or if I changed rings I suppose I’d need to cross hatch it again?IMG_4121.jpegIMG_4125.jpegIMG_4129.jpeg
 
The primary side case is puzzling. I can see there is no seal on the crank bearing. It has the 3 small holes which are too low. However there are 2 other holes on either side of the crank bearing housing. I have not seen or read about this before and wonder if someone knows about this kind of alteration. Depending on how the rest of the engine is, I would likely seal all these 5 holes up and go to the original rotary venting on the cam and install a crankshaft seal. I appreciate any comments on this!

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The primary side case is puzzling. I can see there is no seal on the crank bearing. It has the 3 small holes which are too low. However there are 2 other holes on either side of the crank bearing housing. I have not seen or read about this before and wonder if someone knows about this kind of alteration. Depending on how the rest of the engine is, I would likely seal all these 5 holes up and go to the original rotary venting on the cam and install a crankshaft seal. I appreciate any comments on this!

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I surmise somebody drilled those two holes into the main bearing pocket in order to be able to punch the bearing race out. And, yes, there is no seal on the drive-side bearing. And, I am including a photo of my T140V 750s three holes and location (right under the stator stud) for your perusal. Those holes are so oil can move through them. Yours are lower, indeed, but I do not know if they are not correct. Mebbe Rudie does.

And . . . yer chain tensioner abutment looks like it is bent forward, but it is probably just the angle of the photo. Never mind.

And, as far as splitting the cases, there MAY be a crankcase stud to deal with. It holds the two halves together near the gearbox, IF there is one on your 650, that is.
 

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OK. What is this! On the Gearbox inner cover on the bottom, front edge is a fitting that looks like it is a modification. The fitting is also plugged. Does anyone have an idea of what this would have been for? I may have it welded up if it is not necessary. Thanks.IMG_4177.jpegIMG_4178.jpegIMG_4179.jpeg
 
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