rubbish rubber and dangerous oil

guscar65

Active Member
Local time
Today, 10:40
Joined
Jun 15, 2019
Messages
101
Points
27
Age
73
Location
kirkcaldy fife scotland
First Name
angus
My Ride
blue/white T120 2018
Right,so, I have now completed some 4, 200mile(ish) rideouts with my riding buds-----now they are somewhat more confident than I so just as I was just about up to pace with my previous bike a honda CBF1000 ----I go and change out to my present T120. Its a lovely bike , full of sensations BUT like all bikes you need to 'round off' the corners to make it yours. First off are these awful OE tyres----I wasn't sure at first maybe just me but after a few trips I now know that these tyres are absolutely rubbish, so much so that on returning home yesterday after a trip out to calender and TWO really scary moments on damp roads ---I went straight to my local garage Kirkcaldy Kawasaki and ordered a set of Avon spirit ST. Not only the 'wet' performance but the skittish way that the front wants to follow road imperfections can be unnerving. Had this before on previous bikes when the tread is worn but this takes it to a whole new level.
Dangerous oil. or more correctly contamination. Something I noticed on my Triumph America, and now repeated on the T120. I have a scottoiler fitted and dripping at the recommended 2 drops per minute. Fine, until you fit saddle bags or in my case the leather panniers. Both bikes took a sideways step in the wet -----cutting to the chase----some of the chain oil was being channelled onto the back tyre by the panniers.!. Lesson:- cut the scottoiler to 1 drop or less per minute. Will need to see how that affects the chain wear but safety is priority. (can only carry just so many clean underpants!)
I have the long range screen fitted and it does work well ,not producing turbulence (at my height of 5 8) it allows visor up riding to about 45/50 . to quieten general wind noise I have taken to using SENNER ear plugs ----they don't cut noise as much as some others but they have a system whereby you don't need to keep swallowing to equalise pressure in your ear canals. A bitty expensive at £18 a pair, but you do get a carry case that fits your key ring. Next move is to obtain a set of HAGON rear shocks at £220 it ain't expensive and after experiencing the improvement in compliance they brought to the America its a no brainer. Mind you that will need to wait until next season----spent my pocket money for this year!
 
Good to hear that you are making the 120 yours. When I first purchased my new 2003 T100, I noticed the the same tendency with the front tire to wander and follow the pavement imperfections. It also started to cup. I switched to another brand and that problem disappeared. I upgraded the front and rear suspension and made a new bike out of her. I have never tried a chain oiler.
 
Good to hear that you are making the 120 yours. When I first purchased my new 2003 T100, I noticed the the same tendency with the front tire to wander and follow the pavement imperfections. It also started to cup. I switched to another brand and that problem disappeared. I upgraded the front and rear suspension and made a new bike out of her. I have never tried a chain oiler.
my 2016 T100 came with Metzler tires and caused no problems; mind you, I am not a hard rider
 
Mine came with another brand and I switched to Metzlers. In 2004, the Bonnevilles came with Metzlers OEM.
 
Question: with a sealed link chain, why are you using an oiler?
 
Mine came with another brand and I switched to Metzlers. In 2004, the Bonnevilles came with Metzlers OEM.
yes the latest ones seem to be fitted with pirrelli which copied the original tyres back in the day---
Question: with a sealed link chain, why are you using an oiler?
Even with a sealed link chain there is significant rolling friction between the rollers and the sprocket teeth. This not to mention the sliding friction within the links. Also the 'o' ring seals can fail prematurely without lube. All the wisdom that I see on the mags say that chain lube is essential whether it be dry lube or some kind of oil -----they also agree that a chain oiler extends chain and sprocket life into the high thousands of miles. some claim 20,000 from a set of sprockets using continuous lube. The downside as I have discovered is that you do need to get the feed rate right, and a check on rear tire is advisable. I do have dry lube and have tried it once -----there are many claims for its efficiency however, just for me, past experience with electro-mechanics leaves memories of a sticky mess using similar system----of course times have moved on and these lubes have improved beyond recognition so its just me being a dinosaur and sticking with what I know.
 
yes the latest ones seem to be fitted with pirrelli which copied the original tyres back in the day---

Even with a sealed link chain there is significant rolling friction between the rollers and the sprocket teeth. This not to mention the sliding friction within the links. Also the 'o' ring seals can fail prematurely without lube. All the wisdom that I see on the mags say that chain lube is essential whether it be dry lube or some kind of oil -----they also agree that a chain oiler extends chain and sprocket life into the high thousands of miles. some claim 20,000 from a set of sprockets using continuous lube. The downside as I have discovered is that you do need to get the feed rate right, and a check on rear tire is advisable. I do have dry lube and have tried it once -----there are many claims for its efficiency however, just for me, past experience with electro-mechanics leaves memories of a sticky mess using similar system----of course times have moved on and these lubes have improved beyond recognition so its just me being a dinosaur and sticking with what I know.
Well put.
MX's are 45 minutes between Resprays.
Everyone else needs , extra lube all the time.
Its what makes shaft drive on a tour such a pleasure,
Until turning on a long wheelbase. !
 
Well put.
MX's are 45 minutes between Resprays.
Everyone else needs , extra lube all the time.
Its what makes shaft drive on a tour such a pleasure,
Until turning on a long wheelbase. !
yes I had an old BMW K100RS a few years ago ---also way back a Honda CX650. Shaft drive is the way to go. They both had quirks associated with the drive but all in all ---the way to go.
 
yes I had an old BMW K100RS a few years ago ---also way back a Honda CX650. Shaft drive is the way to go. They both had quirks associated with the drive but all in all ---the way to go.
I only have experience with Suzuki GS850g.
Woe full if pushed round a corner.
But great for normal long distance bike.
I really want to try out one of the modern one distance cruisers. Such as a Kawasaki zx14 or possible a 6 cylinder BMW... This Duel Linkage that BMW invented fascinates me, but one cant have everything.
 
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