Scrambler 1200 - Zard low pipe install.

Greyfell

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A good end of winter project. :y54:
 

Qship

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Looks really sharp. Changes the look of the bike substantially, without sacrificing the off roadability. Should be a little cooler on the right thigh as well, I would think.
 

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Looks really sharp. Changes the look of the bike substantially, without sacrificing the off roadability. Should be a little cooler on the right thigh as well, I would think.

It certainly moves heat away from the thigh as well as doing away with the cat. which with the overall look were my considerations.

Quote from Zard.

ORIGINAL FULL KIT WEIGHT: 10.2 KG
ZARD FULL KIT WEIGHT: 5.2 KG

SIGNIFICANT INCREASE, COMPARED TO THE ORIGINAL EXHAUST SYSTEM,
IN TERMS OF TORQUE AND POWER AT ANY RANGE, ASTONISHING SOUND.

ALUMINIUM SIDE PANEL WITH LEATHER CASE INCLUDED
 

Qship

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I like the little tool pouch that goes on the side cover to replace the heat shield or cover it up. Looks like a great upgrade over the stock system.
 

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Nice install!

curious if you will be installing any crash bars with it?

Probably not. They just add more weight and I don't plan on dropping it. :)

I have a CRF for gnarly stuff, but I'm getting a bit old for that kind of riding to be honest, so most likely the worst my Scrambler will see is our local gravel roads.
 

munga

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Nice install!

curious if you will be installing any crash bars with it?
Yeh that is a very good question Timmy I have crash bars on my XE and I'm definitely not removing them and I also want a two into one system and I do not want to spend drug money on my next system, I did look at the TECBIKE two into one system 350 quid or about $700 AUS is more like it but alas it will not clear foot pegs and the crash bar would be an issue as well at a guess. I would rather not drag out my mig welder out of the corner but for the money spent on Zard? yeh id would rather dust off the welder and you know the punch line! weld one up or just hold off for the minute.
 

RockyDS

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I don't have the crash bars, so I can't say personally but I'm sure I read of an owner who has the Triumph bars and said they work with his Zard low exhaust. I guess Zard would be able to tell you.
 

MplsRider

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Rocky, Would you say that the full Zard low is quite a bit louder than the stock setup? Did you go with the Euro 4 or the non?
 

MplsRider

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One other nice thing about this Zard low for me is that you can get to the oil filler cap without a crazy thin funnel.
 

RockyDS

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Rocky, Would you say that the full Zard low is quite a bit louder than the stock setup? Did you go with the Euro 4 or the non?

It's definitely louder, although not outrageously so. For a few more $$ you can now get a Euro4 spec pipe, so I assume that would be no more noisy then stock.

One other nice thing about this Zard low for me is that you can get to the oil filler cap without a crazy thin funnel.

Yes, oil filling is a breeze.
 

RockyDS

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Nice install!

curious if you will be installing any crash bars with it?
Probably not. They just add more weight and I don't plan on dropping it. :)

I have a CRF for gnarly stuff, but I'm getting a bit old for that kind of riding to be honest, so most likely the worst my Scrambler will see is our local gravel roads.
I don't have the crash bars, so I can't say personally but I'm sure I read of an owner who has the Triumph bars and said they work with his Zard low exhaust. I guess Zard would be able to tell you.

So, following up on this. I sold my CRF so started looking into crash bars. The Triumph bars for Scrambler 1200's don't work with the Zard low exhaust but some enterprising folk figured out that the Givi bars for other Triumph bikes with the same engine might and I've spent the last few months following progress. I was cautious as people would say they fit or thought they'd fit - but I needed to see pictures and a report on any issues.

Once I saw that a couple of owners had fitted them without too much trouble - apparently - I went ahead and ordered a set - TN6410.

The lower engine mounting bolts can be removed easily using a 17mm socket and a long extension by reaching through the frame from the opposite side with a T55 Tork socket on the bolt head. The nuts on the upper bolts are a different matter - seemingly impossible to reach. I had to heat and bend a 17mm open ended wrench in order to get on the nuts - luckily I had one from an old Yamaha tool kit that I didn't mind bending. There's no way a box wrench/ring spanner can be used as there isn't enough clearance to get one over the end of the long bolts. After a lot of fiddling I eventually got these removed. I had help from my son for the entire process and it would be much more difficult to do without the extra pair of hands.

Being cautious, I worked on one side of the bike at a time. After fitting the r/h bar and replacing the bolts/nuts and torqueing them, I switched to the l/h side to repeat the process.

I'd say the top l/h nut is the hardest to reach as the horn is on that side. It's possible a flex head flare nut/line wrench would work, but I don't have one, so I went with the bend open ended wrench option.

Once tight the nuts did grip the frame so the final torque was straightforward.

All-in-all I'm pleased with the result.


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