Street Twin (2021) Oil Leak/Seepage

[sikatri]

Thanks so much for your prompt and insight. It's very much appreciated.
Last question, how hard/easy is it to replace all those?
I obviously have to drain the oil and remove the entire clutch cover, but from there is it a relatively simple enough task to replace all those?

Not very hard it looks similar to my Thruxton at least in the basic layout and parts. Don’t forget the cover gasket. It’s pretty straight forward. Just go slow and take a few pictures along the way as you disassemble. I do recommend a Triumph service manual. It can help a lot with torque settings and disassembly procedures.

 

[triumphantrider]

Not very hard it looks similar to my Thruxton at least in the basic layout and parts. Don’t forget the cover gasket. It’s pretty straight forward. Just go slow and take a few pictures along the way as you disassemble. I do recommend a Triumph service manual. It can help a lot with torque settings and disassembly procedures.

Thanks. I will try and get hold of one but good to know it's a relatively straight forward job to do.

 

[sikatri]

Thanks. I will try and get hold of one but good to know it's a relatively straight forward job to do.

It might be the same as in my manual, so procedure might be similar. My Thruxton is a 2005 and I have no idea what is the same or not. It looks very similar at least in the parts diagrams. Anyway, try to find one, but if the parts come before we can definitely help figure out any issues.

 

[sikatri]

The difference in configuration on mine and yours is the shaft on mine goes from the top and yours goes in from the bottom. Also checked there was no up and down movement on mine that I could tell.

 

[triumphantrider]

The difference in configuration on mine and yours is the shaft on mine goes from the top and yours goes in from the bottom. Also checked there was no up and down movement on mine that I could tell.

Thank you so much for the help. I honestly very much appreciate it. You have certainly pointed me in the right direction and I can't thank you enough.
So just to provide an update on a few things.

1. I called up a Triumph dealership and he said I only needed the seal. He checked a brand new Street Twin he has on the showroom floor and he said that one also had at least 1mm or so of up and down play when he pushed and pulled up and down on it and said that as long as their is no side to side movement then 1mm or so of play is fine seeing as the brand new one on the shop floor had it too.
On mine there is a very miniscule amount of up and down movement too but I have to really push up & down on it with some force for it to move that 1mm or so up and down.

2. He, like you, stated that if that's where I first saw the oil dripping from, then most probably that is where the leak is. He said "the oil wouldn't really get to that spot right under the clutch actuator if that wasn't the source of the leak. It's a very isolated spot and maybe some dirt or grime got in there and has stopped it from sealing properly".

3. Since this thread, I've also checked the stator wiring grommet/seal area for leaks, and there was nothing. I also checked the galle plug area and also nothing, as well as the counter shaft sprocket area, and also nothing.
On top of that, I also checked over the clutch cover bolts with a torque wrench (set to 10nm) as well as any bottom sump/oil pan bolts I could get to (also set to 10nm) and all were properly tightened.

So I think that further validates both yours and his suspicions in regards to the source being the seal of the clutch shifting arm.
So I have ordered the seal for the clutch actuator arm, a new clutch cover gasket with it, as well as a new gear selector shaft seal (although he didn't feel that I needed to replace that seal) but I thought I may as well replace that while I'm doing this.

Now next question sorry, is there any way where I can install the new seal and gasket without draining the engine oil? Seeing as the bike just had a service and fresh oil.

 

[sikatri]

Thanks for the update! It’s going to dump oil when you remove the cover. Even when I removed mine there was a fair amount of oil coming out even after I had drained and removed the oil filter as well. You don’t need to change the oil filter or even remove it, but otherwise I think it’s going to mean new oil. Sounds like you’ll get it all sorted out.

 

[sikatri]

PS. Have a tray positioned under the engine to catch any drippings when you remove the cover. Go at it slowly. It might take gentle tapping with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Don’t use anything that can damage the mating surfaces.

 

[triumphantrider]

PS. Have a tray positioned under the engine to catch any drippings when you remove the cover. Go at it slowly. It might take gentle tapping with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Don’t use anything that can damage the mating surfaces.

Thanks for that. Will do, but where exactly would I aim/tap the rubber mallet on? Are there any tabs on the clutch cover?

 

[sikatri]

Thanks for that. Will do, but where exactly would I aim/tap the rubber mallet on? Are there any tabs on the clutch cover?

Clutch Job On A Thruxton 900

Since I’ll be taking the clutch cover off with the idler boss reinforcement, I’m going to see if I should replace the clutch discs. I’ve ordered discs and a few seals. I have a clutch tool for removal and install. I don’t have an alignment tool and from my understanding the job can be done...

www.triumphtalk.com

When I did my clutch job I made a thread. The first picture there’s a tab at the top. What I did was remove the bolts. Then tapped around the whole case gently with a rubber mallet. On the tab at the top of the case, I passed a wood block from the other side and care fully hit the block of wood until the case started to come off.

 

[triumphantrider]

Clutch Job On A Thruxton 900

Since I’ll be taking the clutch cover off with the idler boss reinforcement, I’m going to see if I should replace the clutch discs. I’ve ordered discs and a few seals. I have a clutch tool for removal and install. I don’t have an alignment tool and from my understanding the job can be done...

www.triumphtalk.com

When I did my clutch job I made a thread. The first picture there’s a tab at the top. What I did was remove the bolts. Then tapped around the whole case gently with a rubber mallet. On the tab at the top of the case, I passed a wood block from the other side and care fully hit the block of wood until the case started to come off.

Thanks for that. I'll gently persuade it to separate it.
I'm going to do a service while I'm at it. In regards to the air filter, is it something I may be able to just clean using compressed air?

 

[sikatri]

Thanks for that. I'll gently persuade it to separate it.
I'm going to do a service while I'm at it. In regards to the air filter, is it something I may be able to just clean using compressed air?

You can try. It certainly won’t hurt it to take it out and blow some air through it. For some reason mine was a bit difficult to take out so eventually I did an airbox delete mod on mine. I have carburetors. The new type on mine are meant to be air cleaned. When you take yours out you can decide how it looks. But, if it’s close to a regular scheduled replacement I would replace them.

 

[triumphantrider]

You can try. It certainly won’t hurt it to take it out and blow some air through it. For some reason mine was a bit difficult to take out so eventually I did an airbox delete mod on mine. I have carburetors. The new type on mine are meant to be air cleaned. When you take yours out you can decide how it looks. But, if it’s close to a regular scheduled replacement I would replace them.

Just going to replace everything that's been mentioned.
I got hold of a service manual though and the clutch cover removal seems quite simple, although patience needed, but how would you suggest I go about knocking the old needle bearing out of it and installing the new ones?
I was originally just going to replace the seal (I have a seal puller) but if the bearings aren't too difficult to remove then I want to try replacing them too.

 

[sikatri]

Just going to replace everything that's been mentioned.
I got hold of a service manual though and the clutch cover removal seems quite simple, although patience needed, but how would you suggest I go about knocking the old needle bearing out of it and installing the new ones?
I was originally just going to replace the seal (I have a seal puller) but if the bearings aren't too difficult to remove then I want to try replacing them too.

They should slide out pretty easily. I don’t think you’ll need any special tool. But if you need to use anything, make sure it’s wood or plastic of some type. You don’t want to mar any of the surfaces.

Replacing some of the miscellaneous items is good when you have it open anyway. I did an idler boss reinforcement on mine when I had the cover off for a clutch job.

 

[triumphantrider]

They should slide out pretty easily. I don’t think you’ll need any special tool. But if you need to use anything, make sure it’s wood or plastic of some type. You don’t want to mar any of the surfaces.

Replacing some of the miscellaneous items is good when you have it open anyway. I did an idler boss reinforcement on mine when I had the cover off for a clutch job.

How am I supposed to get a piece of wood in there? The hole where the bearings are looks very tiny.

 

[sikatri]

How am I supposed to get a piece of wood in there? The hole where the bearings are looks very tiny.

I mean if you need to use a pick make sure it’s not one that will mar the surface. I think it’ll come out easily though.

 

[triumphantrider]

I mean if you need to use a pick make sure it’s not one that will mar the surface. I think it’ll come out easily though.

I have no idea what you even mean by 'a pick'

 

[sikatri]

I have no idea what you even mean by 'a pick'

It’s like a long slender tool with a hook. Usually I’ve been able to remove needle type bearings without any special tools. I really wouldn’t be too concerned at this point. The manual should mention if any special tool was needed. I don’t recall it mentioning needing any.

These are one type of pick set. This particular set wouldn’t be my first choice in this instance. There might be a small bearing puller for those if needed. I know there are a variety out there. I think it’s a blind bearing puller. They come in a variety of sizes, don’t know if it’s as small as the needle bearing in the cover. If it needs a tool to come out, I would look for a small puller or create a tool that works the same way.

Something like this.

Bearing Puller Set,16pcs Blind / Internal /Bearing Puller - OMT

The Orion Motor Tech bearing puller set fit hundreds of makes and models including most American, European and Japanese makes/models.

orionmotortech.com

I would definitely verify the sizes you need first if this ends up being needed.

 

[triumphantrider]

It’s like a long slender tool with a hook. Usually I’ve been able to remove needle type bearings without any special tools. I really wouldn’t be too concerned at this point. The manual should mention if any special tool was needed. I don’t recall it mentioning needing any.
View attachment 57942
These are one type of pick set. This particular set wouldn’t be my first choice in this instance. There might be a small bearing puller for those if needed. I know there are a variety out there. I think it’s a blind bearing puller. They come in a variety of sizes, don’t know if it’s as small as the needle bearing in the cover. If it needs a tool to come out, I would look for a small puller or create a tool that works the same way.

Something like this.

Bearing Puller Set,16pcs Blind / Internal /Bearing Puller - OMT

The Orion Motor Tech bearing puller set fit hundreds of makes and models including most American, European and Japanese makes/models.

orionmotortech.com

I would definitely verify the sizes you need first if this ends up being needed.

Thanks so much for your help. The new bearing and seal have been installed.
I do however want to run something else by you. When I removed the clutch cover, I noticed a minuscule amount of "milky oil" on the inside of the clutch cover itself (red circles in photo) and a little pea sized drop of it on the coolant reservoir rubber cap (red circle in that photo). I cleaned it off but I'm feeling kinda bummed about it, somewhat concerned. The circled spots are from after I cleaned it off, I'm just using these photos to show where the iced coffee coloured oil was.
That "chocolate milk"/iced coffee coloured oil was only in the areas that are circled in red. So far there has been no signs of it on the gears inside the main clutch assembly or in the drained oil in the red tray as you can hopefully tell. The oil in the tray looked exactly how I would expect oil to look.
The coolant level is still at the max line, so doesn't appear like I've "lost" any coolant.
When is it time to be concerned about it? Or what would cause milky oil in those red circled spots? I'm really not sure what to think. It doesn't even have 7000k's yet.

 

[triumphantrider]

I did also call up the seller and the mechanic at the shop that inspected it and asked why it wasn't picked up on (both the leak AND the chocolate milk coloured oil in these spots) and the seller said to call the shop mechanic, which I did and he said "might just be some condensation".
Granted it is cold where I live...but not ice cold.

 

[sikatri]

Over filling oil sometimes causes oil to look milky, but settles back after the engine is turned off for awhile. Yes, it could be drops of condensation. Moisture is attracted to gas with ethanol too and the main reason I run ethanol free gas in my motorcycle. I wouldn’t be too concerned with that amount of milky residue. Just change your oil at least once a year and you should be fine. My motorcycle is of course air cooled so no water danger from a system leak. I’m really not familiar with the differences in the liquid cooled models and if there’s internal hoses or how the water is routed. Perhaps someone with a liquid cooled model will put your mind at ease.