Stuck Motor ???

Greyfell

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Of course you are opening the Fluid release nut down at the Hub/calipers, so I don't know what could be wrong.

Here's a very good video about changing brake fluid (includes bleeding) that MIGHT provide an answer:

 

B25bsaboy

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Any idea why my front brakes WILL NOT BLEED !! Pumping fluid just won’t move anything!! Spent hours trying. Thanks
Catchalot, Just going through the same problem in that no matter what I tried, nothing but it seems like thin air in bleeding and pulling the brake lever.
I then tried an old trick I used to try back then in pulling the brake lever in half ways and tie it at that point and walk away for a couple of days. When I came back the bubbles or air seems to have risen and there is more back pressure.
I then went to Spirit Manufacturing and ordered a rebuild kit, because the plunger and round slid cup rubbers over time wear out on the leading edges that are supposed to give 360 degrees seal on the inside of the master cylinder piston. Kit arrived in 7 days by air mail and will change out the internals this weekend and I will let the board know the end results.
 

B25bsaboy

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1970 Triumph TR25W, 1972 BMW R75/5, 1995 Triumph Thunderbird 900
Of course you are opening the Fluid release nut down at the Hub/calipers, so I don't know what could be wrong.

Here's a very good video about changing brake fluid (includes bleeding) that MIGHT provide an answer:

Like this guy, as I have atched the rebuild for the Legend. Some excellent ideas and some not such a good idea!
 

B25bsaboy

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Riding for 53 Years
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Richard (Rick)
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1970 Triumph TR25W, 1972 BMW R75/5, 1995 Triumph Thunderbird 900
Any idea why my front brakes WILL NOT BLEED !! Pumping fluid just won’t move anything!! Spent hours trying. Thanks
Any idea why my front brakes WILL NOT BLEED !! Pumping fluid just won’t move anything!! Spent hours trying. Thanks
This photo may help explain some of the issues that you are having. I for one am going through the same issue and I know its frustrating.
If you look at the photo attached the bottom one is what came from the Triumph factory 26 years ago and look closely at the two slid rubbers in comparison to the top one. The bottom ones need to be replaced as the leading edges have worn down.
 

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brooke

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Wire Wheels makes a good point about the intake "boots" They are old- replace them with the ones with the larger inside diameter
Sprint, etc.
Are you sure wire and coil are good? - prove it.
MMO is magic stuff! ATF works, too. You WILL have seepage past rings into your fresh oil change, so once it starts and runs, and the goo inside gets stirred up, change the oil again.
Carbs that sit for long periods of time get dirt/crud in jets, but what gets plugged from sitting is usually the AIR BLEEDS. As old gas evaporates, gunk builds up in air bleeds. Often overlooked in a "carburectomy"
Check/re-set float height!
40+ years of being a licensed mechanic has taught me=
Owners manual from my 1969 Kawasaki 500 had these words= "Before beginning maintenance on your "dynamic partner" one must first have a peaceful mind"
Good advice! meaning, clear your mind, be open to "see" your problem, re-think about your diagnosis. Your problem is likely small and you have "looked" but not "seen".
Zen proverb- "To "see", one must first learn to "look"
I rode a few Triples but guess I missed one of the best parts . Remember reading an early Honda manual which described the foot pegs as stirrups .
Obviously we were thought of as a bunch of cowboys , not much has changed .
 
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