Testing A Stator

sikatri

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I started to suspect I may have a stator issue. I was riding along and the engine was completely warm, perhaps about 10 miles out and it started running like it was running out of juice, electricity. At one point it sounded like it might have fired on only one cylinder. I wasn’t far from home so I took the quickest route back. I keep the battery tethered so it’s always full charge and starts up fine. I looked into how to diagnose a stator and it’s my understanding that I should be able to read the resistance number for the stator by connecting a meter to each terminal going to the stator, 3 in all. When I do this, I get zero point zero, and if I understand correctly this means it is grounding, meaning the stator is bad. I’ll post a few pictures. Am I correct in my testing?79FA8853-8FFE-4407-BC1C-C90741DB49FB.jpeg7FE33F98-69A6-4F74-A3E4-848BB87053BB.jpeg
 

Greyfell

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first question: are you measuring toward the stator, or toward the battery? Probably a silly question, but you didn't say and I don't know that connector.
 

sikatri

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first question: are you measuring toward the stator, or toward the battery? Probably a silly question, but you didn't say and I don't know that connector.
Sorry, that was to the stator. I also measured from each terminal to negative ground on the battery.
 

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If I recall correctly, you have a 2004 Thruxton. Here is a recommended site for stator/rectifier/regulator for that model. If you have different year, start a new search and correct my error.

Rick's Motorsports
 

sikatri

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If I recall correctly, you have a 2004 Thruxton. Here is a recommended site for stator/rectifier/regulator for that model. If you have different year, start a new search and correct my error.

Rick's Motorsports
2005. I looked at Rick’s. I noticed the grommet was a bit flimsy. I also found a Celox stator that was supposed to fit, new and under $50. The OEM from Triumph is around $400, a bit pricey. Has anyone heard of Celox?0AAE5017-BB9F-4B17-9ED4-9A0587529E70.png
 
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Greyfell

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You might be right, but it doesn't look flimsy to me. The copper ring is affixed to a steel/aluminum ring behind of at least 1/8th inch thickness. There are 6 "welds" around the ring. The Celox ring seems to be all aluminum; not as conductive as copper.
21-006.jpg
 

sikatri

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You might be right, but it doesn't look flimsy to me. The copper ring is affixed to a steel/aluminum ring behind of at least 1/8th inch thickness. There are 6 "welds" around the ring. The Celox ring seems to be all aluminum; not as conductive as copper.
21-006.jpg
I was actually looking at the grommet where it goes into the case. It doesn't have a boot shape and the wires are unprotected. That's a bit bothersome. Then the price. I believe my regulator rectifier is a Rick's product, so I don't think their products are bad.

Would you agree my current one is toast?
 

sikatri

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Possibly, but I don't have the experience to be to say more surely.
It’s the first time I’ve gone through the process of trying to verify a stator. Seems simple enough, just wanted to make sure. I’ll probably take the cover off and see what’s hiding in there.
 

sikatri

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Then there’s this Electrosport Stator that is under $140 and has a grommet like the original.
5545E1E0-6F01-495B-ACF3-4E2D48D7D9C8.jpeg
I’m guessing a Thruxton 865 is the Thruxton 900 and someone just wanted to be exact. LoL.

Some negative reviews. Don’t know. Something to think about.
 
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Greyfell

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It seems the stator should some resistance measuring between each wire. Almost zero, but not zero. Here are two good short videos for testing a stator (I suspect you've looked a one or two yourself, already):


 

sikatri

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It seems the stator should some resistance measuring between each wire. Almost zero, but not zero. Here are two good short videos for testing a stator (I suspect you've looked a one or two yourself, already):


I looked at these two. I should have had a reading near 0.3 or 0.6. At any rate it should not have been 0.0.
 

sikatri

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So a bit past just testing. I’ve removed the bolts for the stator cover and it won’t budge. It’s my first time removing one and it seems it needs a bit of persuasion. Any tips on leverage points or where to tap to work it off would be appreciated.
2789810E-70B3-44F0-8608-5658C44E3C4C.jpeg
 

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If you're going to tap it, I'd recommend a rubber mallet.
 

sikatri

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There is a trick to this. WD-40, let stand for about an hour or more, and give it a whack with a rubber mallet and a section of round birch handrail.
779F6634-E76E-4C81-8F76-1E34A7220127.jpegFB09479E-AC75-4443-A89D-1F83F401E307.jpeg6D9763EE-7B6E-4EE2-AB0D-A0BBAE6FB201.jpeg72ACF783-2280-421C-98C4-BFA01DD5B52A.jpeg
 

sikatri

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I may have another issue the pickup coil/crankshaft position sensor. I don’t trust my meter at this point, so in order to verify if one or both are bad I’m taking them to the local Triumph dealership tomorrow. I called and they said someone there should be able to test both the stator and the pickup coil. I took both completely off.
 

sikatri

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Oh, on the stator’s rotor which direction do I rotate it to align the tabs with the pickup coil when I reinstall it? Clockwise or counterclockwise?
 

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I'm not certain about this, but on the non-equal spacing of the holes in the inner ring, I think the stator can only go in one position/orientation.
 

sikatri

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I'm not certain about this, but on the non-equal spacing of the holes in the inner ring, I think the stator can only go in one position/orientation.
I mean it needs to be physically rotated to bring the tab on the rotor to the sensor contact point so the .8mm air space can be set. I suppose it means the plugs need to be off so I won’t be fighting compression.
CAA742E5-9A78-48F0-8F65-6A20A2C14C22.jpeg
Here is the coil. As you can see there is no tab there under the sensor. There are three tab along the perimeter of the rotor. One needs to be rotated to the point where it is closest to the coil. I need to know if I rotate the shaft in clockwise or counterclockwise direction.
 
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