Triumph starting problem just goes click

James H

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If you are having a problem with your Triumph just going "click" when you try to start, I have figured out the problem AND how to easily fix it. Assuming you have a good battery, good connections, etc. Some of the Triumph models have an electrical design problem. If you have a Triumph that keeps the headlight on throughout the starting process it draws too much juice and because of the voltage cut-off settings in the CPU it shuts down the starting process and all you get is "click." The settings cannot be changed or re-mapped. The fix is to install a toggle switch on the headlight assembly so you can shut off headlight when starting. Very do-able for do it yourself or have mechanic do it. Drill hole in headlight assembly, splice toggle switch wire into hot wire for low beam of headlight, push toggle switch up though hole and secure with nut. If you want to be sure that this is your problem, before you install toggle switch, open up headlight assembly and just unplug the plug going into headlight. If bike starts, you now know what to do. If bike doesn't start, then look elsewhere, relay, solenoid, starter, etc. I had the click problem REAL BAD with my 2009 America. After installing toggle switch, no more clicks and my bike even starts in freezing cold weather. My bike is an un-heated garage and there is no electric to plug in a battery tender.
 

Ferret

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May have to use a water proof switch, I have one with a rubber boot that goes over the toggle and screws on. I was going to use a LED switch but it's not water proof as I would like to know if the head light is on when riding because I know I will forget to switch it on. I could use clear heat tube for the LED switch I guess :y147:
 

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I like the idea of a heat tube.
 

Ferret

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The switch wont fit under the windshield in the headlight so I made a bracket to fit between the risers, I'm going to use the rubber boot just need to cut the tip off to see the LED. The only thing about the red LED being on is I think it will drive me crazy looking at it all the time, tried to get a green one but out of stock at my local shop.IMG10486.jpg
 

Ferret

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OK all done, will get pics latter. The main reason I did this was the thought of being in the middle of no ware and hitting the starter and click, nothing, then having too take apart the head light to get it started, better safe then sorry :cool:
 

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Great post James, I have had my 2011 speedmaster for 3 years now and it has just started to do this, I thought it was my battery at first. Just one question, is the 'Hot'wire to the low beam a certain colour as I don't want to cut into the wrong one?
Thanks for your help.
 

James H

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May have to use a water proof switch, I have one with a rubber boot that goes over the toggle and screws on. I was going to use a LED switch but it's not water proof as I would like to know if the head light is on when riding because I know I will forget to switch it on. I could use clear heat tube for the LED switch I guess :y147:
Water-proof switch is probably a good idea. I don't ride in rain, but I mounted my switch on the side of the headlight assembly not on top. Less likely water can get in. I also carry duct tape so if I get caught in rain I can put piece of tape over switch.
 

James H

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The switch wont fit under the windshield in the headlight so I made a bracket to fit between the risers, I'm going to use the rubber boot just need to cut the tip off to see the LED. The only thing about the red LED being on is I think it will drive me crazy looking at it all the time, tried to get a green one but out of stock at my local shop.View attachment 46092
You don't have to put the switch on the top of the headlight assembly. I put mine on the side so water is less likely to get in. I just used an un-lighted switch.
 

James H

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Great post James, I have had my 2011 speedmaster for 3 years now and it has just started to do this, I thought it was my battery at first. Just one question, is the 'Hot'wire to the low beam a certain colour as I don't want to cut into the wrong one?
Thanks for your help.
I don't know the colour because I had dealer do it. Even if I take my headlight assembly apart and look, because mine is 2009 America might not be same colour as your 2011 Speedmaster. Suggest you ask dealer. This starting problem fix is only if your Speedmaster keeps the headlight on continually while you are pressing start button. If your headlight goes off while pressing start button, you have a different problem. (Battery, relay, solenoid, dirty connection somewhere, ???)
 

Greyfell

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It is probably not the black wire. Black is usually reserved for neutral/ground/earth.
 

James H

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If you are having a problem with your Triumph just going "click" when you try to start, I have figured out the problem AND how to easily fix it. Assuming you have a good battery, good connections, etc. Some of the Triumph models have an electrical design problem. If you have a Triumph that keeps the headlight on throughout the starting process it draws too much juice and because of the voltage cut-off settings in the CPU it shuts down the starting process and all you get is "click." The settings cannot be changed or re-mapped. The fix is to install a toggle switch on the headlight assembly so you can shut off headlight when starting. Very do-able for do it yourself or have mechanic do it. Drill hole in headlight assembly, splice toggle switch wire into hot wire for low beam of headlight, push toggle switch up though hole and secure with nut. If you want to be sure that this is your problem, before you install toggle switch, open up headlight assembly and just unplug the plug going into headlight. If bike starts, you now know what to do. If bike doesn't start, then look elsewhere, relay, solenoid, starter, etc. I had the click problem REAL BAD with my 2009 America. After installing toggle switch, no more clicks and my bike even starts in freezing cold weather. My bike is an un-heated garage and there is no electric to plug in a battery tender.
 

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Ferret

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On the side or top still won't fit because of the windshield. I used the LED switch because that's all I had at the time.IMG10489.jpgIMG10490.jpgIMG10491.jpg
 
Last edited:

James H

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On the side or top still won't fit because of the windshield. I used the LED switch because that's all I had at the time.

Nice work, but I wasn't concerned about being able to reach the switch while riding. I turn switch on after starting before I get up on bike. For people who have windshield, there is plenty of room to put toggle switch on headlight assembly in front of windshield somewhere; just can't reach through the windshield to turn it on or off. For people without windshield like me; My non-waterproof switch is installed on the side of headlight assembly to minimize water getting in, but definitely better to use a water-proof switch or install switch on the under-side of the headlight assembly to eliminate water concerns. No matter how you do it, as long as it eliminates the dreaded "click" when starting it's all good! :)
 

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Ferret

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Yours does look very neat.
 

Hornbills

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Ay. ay ay. Well I got the dreaded click on my '96 900 T-Bird and, after reading this thread, prayed that it was going be something along the lines of an electrical gremlin in the starting circuit or relay (which,incidentally I had just changed - so it was a prime suspect) but, depressingly, all proved to be good and I was resigned to pulling the starter. I'd already scanned the Haynes manual and, the reason for my depression, was that to get to the little bugger, the carbs and airbox had to come off. Now anyone who has tried that before would agree with me when I say I would rather have a root canal. That airbox has no room for maneuvering at all! Anyhoo, I looked the whole job over and realized that the issue all came down to the cooling pipe, just below the carbs, rear mounting bolt. That's it, all that faffing just because of that bolt. So I looked further and found I could get my fingers on it - and if I could do that, I could perhaps get a tool on it. A regular wrench or socket would definitely not get in there, but I did have a handy little 8mm semi socket spanner that I could almost get in. Almost. So I cut it down with the mini grinder and, Hey Presto! ,slipped it in there and wound the bolt out. So the only hassle really was draining the cooling system and removing the hoses that are there. I had the starter out in under 3 minutes! Wahoo! Turns out the tag that runs off the bottom of the positive terminal to its brush had snapped apart and re-soldering was all that was required - about another five minutes. I hope this mod helps some other despairing soul, and thanks to everyone who added to this thread. It all helped even if it did not actually solve my problem - it did at least isolate it! Now, anyone know why my hooter voltage has halved? Sigh, here we go again....20191223_081723.jpg20191223_081708.jpg
 

James H

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Ay. ay ay. Well I got the dreaded click on my '96 900 T-Bird and, after reading this thread, prayed that it was going be something along the lines of an electrical gremlin in the starting circuit or relay (which,incidentally I had just changed - so it was a prime suspect) but, depressingly, all proved to be good and I was resigned to pulling the starter. I'd already scanned the Haynes manual and, the reason for my depression, was that to get to the little bugger, the carbs and airbox had to come off. Now anyone who has tried that before would agree with me when I say I would rather have a root canal. That airbox has no room for maneuvering at all! Anyhoo, I looked the whole job over and realized that the issue all came down to the cooling pipe, just below the carbs, rear mounting bolt. That's it, all that faffing just because of that bolt. So I looked further and found I could get my fingers on it - and if I could do that, I could perhaps get a tool on it. A regular wrench or socket would definitely not get in there, but I did have a handy little 8mm semi socket spanner that I could almost get in. Almost. So I cut it down with the mini grinder and, Hey Presto! ,slipped it in there and wound the bolt out. So the only hassle really was draining the cooling system and removing the hoses that are there. I had the starter out in under 3 minutes! Wahoo! Turns out the tag that runs off the bottom of the positive terminal to its brush had snapped apart and re-soldering was all that was required - about another five minutes. I hope this mod helps some other despairing soul, and thanks to everyone who added to this thread. It all helped even if it did not actually solve my problem - it did at least isolate it! Now, anyone know why my hooter voltage has halved? Sigh, here we go again....View attachment 46190View attachment 46191
Glad you were able to fix your problem, but this thread is about excessive voltage draw because headlight remains on during start process in some models and years. Resulting in just click, even though battery, starter, charging system, solenoid, relay, connections and everything else is all good. Solution for this problem is to install a toggle switch on headlight assembly to turn headlight off when starting. Mine is a 2009 and I'm guessing the affected years are roughly between 2007-2013. :)
 

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Hornbills

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Glad you were able to fix your problem, but this thread is about excessive voltage draw because headlight remains on during start process in some models and years. Resulting in just click, even though battery, starter, solenoid, relay, connections and everything else is all good. Solution for this problem is to install a toggle switch on headlight assembly to turn headlight off when starting. Mine is a 2009 and I'm guessing the affected years are roughly between 2007-2013.
Sorry pardon. It was the click thing. Greetings from South Africa and a local ditty:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onBLru8SfOk
 
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