'73 DAYTONA T100R

thanks Rudie for tech talk on the exhaust pipes and signals for the T100. Interesting..
 
I FINISHED CHANGING THE CONTACT BREAKER OIL SEAL, THE GEARBOX DRAIN PLUG WASHER, THE KICKSTART OIL SEAL AND THE CRANK CASE DRAIN PLUG AND WASHER. ALL OF MY LEAKS STOPPED EXCEPT THE CRANK CASE LEAK FROM THE DRAIN PLUG. IS THIS BECAUSE THE ENGINE HEAT EXPANDS THE ALUMINUM AND OIL SEAPS PASSED THE WASHER?

ALSO, WHEN I GIVE THE BIKE GAS AT IDLE IT HAS A DELAYED THROTTLE RESPONSE. IF I GIVE IT TOO MUCH GAS IT DIES. DID I THROW OFF THE TIMING WHEN I CHANGED THE CONTACT BREAKER OIL SEAL?

THE CARBS WERE NEVER TOUCHED AND THE BIKE DIDN'T HAVE THAT ISSUE BEFORE I TOUCHED THE POINTS PLATE. IT HAS NO SPUTTERING ISSUES WHEN I'M RIDING IT.
 
SIR LOIN said:
CHANGING THE CONTACT BREAKER OIL SEAL, THE GEARBOX DRAIN PLUG WASHER, THE KICKSTART OIL SEAL AND THE CRANK CASE DRAIN PLUG AND WASHER. ALL OF MY LEAKS STOPPED EXCEPT THE CRANK CASE LEAK FROM THE DRAIN PLUG. IS THIS BECAUSE THE ENGINE HEAT EXPANDS THE ALUMINUM AND OIL SEAPS PASSED THE WASHER?
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No.

You have fitted a new crankcase drain plug/filter cap? It should be made of aluminium alloy at least similar to the crankcase. Nevertheless any new drain plug/filter cap is a pattern part, it could be undersize. Or the crankcase is nearly fifty years old, the thread could be worn.

Did you put any sealant on the new drain plug/filter cap threads before fitting it? I always assemble with Hylomar, fitting and tightening following the Hylomar instructions. However, care must be taken to ensure neither thread has oil on it.

SIR LOIN said:
DELAYED THROTTLE RESPONSE
DID I THROW OFF THE TIMING WHEN I CHANGED THE CONTACT BREAKER OIL SEAL?
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You removed both the points and the auto-advance unit. Did you mark them and the timing chest so they were reinstalled in the same positions? Have you checked the timing with a strobe?
 
I DID NOT PUT ANY SEALANT ON THE PLUG. GUESS I WILL DRAIN THE OIL AND USE SEALANT ON THE CRANKCASE PLUG.

I DID MARK THE CONTACT PLATE AND PUT THAT IN THE SAME WAY I PULLED IT OUT. THE ISSUE I THINK I'M HAVING IS THAT I MAY HAVE PUT THE AUTO ADVANCE UNIT IN WRONG. ARE THERE ANY MARKINGS ON THE UNIT WHICH SHOULD LINE UP WITH ANY OTHER MARKINGS?

ADVANCING THE CONTACT PLATE ALL THE WAY IS STILL NOT FIXING THE THROTTLE DELAY SO THAT IS WHY I THINK THE AUTO ADVANCE UNIT IS IN WRONG.
 
SIR LOIN said:
SEALANT ON THE PLUG. GUESS I WILL DRAIN THE OIL AND USE SEALANT ON THE CRANKCASE PLUG.
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There should not be much oil to drain from the crankcase. Do the degreasing and refitting with the the bike on its sidestand so any oil remaining in the crankcase drains away from plug opening.

If using Hylomar, my tube instructs: both threads must be completely dry when the Hylomar is applied, the threaded components are fitted, tightened but not completely, the period of time is allowed to elapse then the components are tightened completely.

SIR LOIN said:
ISSUE I THINK I'M HAVING IS THAT I MAY HAVE PUT THE AUTO ADVANCE UNIT IN WRONG. ARE THERE ANY MARKINGS ON THE UNIT WHICH SHOULD LINE UP WITH ANY OTHER MARKINGS?
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Some have a cutaway in the bottom of the taper that mates with a "lump" at the bottom of the camshaft taper. Otherwise no, marking is up to the person working on the engine.

When the auto advance unit is out of the camshaft and the timing chest, you should check the advance weights move freely in both directions, springs are not broken, etc. and lubricate as advised in the manuals.

SIR LOIN said:
ADVANCING THE CONTACT PLATE ALL THE WAY IS STILL NOT FIXING THE THROTTLE DELAY SO THAT IS WHY I THINK THE AUTO ADVANCE UNIT IS IN WRONG.
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Strobe it rather than making random guesses?
 
THE AUTO ADVANCE WORKS GOOD. ALL PARTS ARE FREE AND LUBED.

I CAN'T STROBE IT UNTIL I KNOW THE ADVANCE UNIT IS IN PROPERLY. IF IT ISN'T IT WILL NEVER BE TIMED CORRECTLY.

I KNOW ON HONDA'S THERE ARE AMPLE MARKINGS TO HELP IN THE CORRECT INSTALLATION OF THE UNIT. ON THE TRIUMPH I HAVE SEEN NONE AND THERE IS NOTHING IN MY SERVICE MANUALS OR ONLINE REGARDING ANY MARKINGS.

A MATTER OF TRIAL AND ERROR I GUESS.
 
SIR LOIN said:
CAN'T STROBE IT UNTIL I KNOW THE ADVANCE UNIT IS IN PROPERLY.
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Incorrect. Using a strobe on the markings in the primary chaincase will show if the spark timing is advancing and if/when the timing is correct. Strobing is not only for checking the timing is correct, it is also a diagnostic tool.
 
AFTER A RIDE THIS PAST WEEKEND ON PCH IN MALIBU, IT APPEARS THAT MY BIKE NO LONGER LEAKS THANKS TO THE SEALANT USED ON THE UNDERSIDE BOLTS PER RUDIE'S RECOMMENDATION.

THANKS AGAIN RUDIE.

THE NEXT TASK I WANTED TO TACKLE WAS CHANGING THE FORK OIL. IF I USE A HEAVIER WEIGHT OIL, WILL MY FRONT SUSPENSION BE A BIT STIFFER? THE BIKE DIVES A BIT UNDER HARD BRAKING AND I WOULD LIKE TO REMEDY THIS.
 
SIR LOIN said:
APPEARS THAT MY BIKE NO LONGER LEAKS THANKS TO THE SEALANT USED ON THE UNDERSIDE BOLTS
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(y)

SIR LOIN said:
CHANGING THE FORK OIL. IF I USE A HEAVIER WEIGHT OIL, WILL MY FRONT SUSPENSION BE A BIT STIFFER? THE BIKE DIVES A BIT UNDER HARD BRAKING
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If you have not changed the fork oil since you bought the bike, you do not know either the quantity or the viscosity of what is in there, either of which can affect fork action.

71 onwards, the T100 was the only Triumph to retain the old style forks that, before 71, had been fitted to all bikes. Triumph recommended 20-weight oil in the old style forks, ATF in the new style forks. ATF is only around 7.5-weight; not very clever and not very careful people (mechanics as well as owners) put ATF in old style forks, owners wondered why their T100 dived so much under braking ... :cool:

Proper fork oil has been around for years. Ime and mho, I would first locate some 20-weight proper fork oil, then empty all the old oil out of the forks, remove the sliders and dampers, degrease them and remove any sediment and/or sludge in the bottoms of the sliders, reassemble and fill with the recommended quantity of the new fork oil.

Then go for a test ride; knowing the oil in the forks is both the correct quantity and the correct viscosity you can evaluate the front suspension accurately, whether you need to make changes. (y)

"correct viscosity" - If you do need to make changes to fork oil viscosity, know not every fork oil maker is as good as every other at matching the true viscosity of the oil in a container to the viscosity printed on the container ... Fork oil weights :cool:

So, if you need to change viscosity, try to avoid changing makes at the same time. Also know 20-weight fork oil is thick by modern standard so there are few makers and, if you want a viscosity that no one makes, you might have to mix proportions of lower and higher viscosities - e.g. if you wanted 25-weight, you might have to mix equal quantities of 20-weight and 30-weight.

Nevertheless, intermixability is one of the advantages of "proper fork oil"; also, having cleaned the fork internals once for the first fill of proper fork oil, if you do want to change to a different viscosity, you need only empty out the old and refill with the new. (y)
 
Forget "quantity" and "viscosity", you need to be MUCH more concerned about CONTAMINANTS!

Typically, forks that haven't been ridden and maintained much, will be gooey / milky with sludgy condensation.
 
grandpaul said:
Typically, forks that haven't been ridden and maintained much, will be gooey / milky with sludgy condensation.
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Rudie said:
then empty all the old oil out of the forks, remove the sliders and dampers, degrease them and remove any sediment and/or sludge in the bottoms of the sliders,
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You forgot to say "milky"

hee hee

Carry on...
 
TODAY I WENT TO TAKE THE BIKE OUT FOR A LEISURELY RIDE AND AS SOON AS I FLIPPED MY PETCOCK TO THE ON POSITION, GAS BEGAN SPILLING OUT OF MY RIGHT CARB THROUGH THE TICKLER. I SHUT THE GAS OFF AND PUSHED THE TICKLER DOWN A FEW TIMES AND TURNED THE GAS ON AGAIN. NO GAS LEAKED OUT THIS TIME.

WAS THE FLOAT STUCK? THE CARBS ARE NEW AMAL 626. I ALWAYS SHUT THE PETCOCK OFF AND IDLE THE BIKE UNTIL THE BOWLS ARE CLEAR OF GAS WHEN I'M DONE RIDING.
 
SIR LOIN said:
:y151: GENTLEMEN,

I JOINED THE FORUM TODAY AND HAD A FEW QUESTIONS REGARDING MY NEWLY PURCHASED (06/20/22) TRIUMPH AND YES MY CAPS BUTTON IS STUCK( KID DUMPED MAPLE SYRUP ON MY KEYBOARD). I WANTED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND INFO ON WHAT ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT CAME ON THIS BIKE AND WHAT DECALS BELONG WHERE. AS FAR AS I CAN TELL FROM WEBSITES I HAVE VISITED, MY BIKE IS MOSTLY ORIGINAL. THE CARBS ARE NEW AMAL 626 AND THE FRONT RIM LOOKS NEW BUT IT'S THE CORRECT SIZE AND UK MADE. ONCE I LEARN HOW TO POST PICTURES I WILL GET SOME UP.

THE BIKE CAME WITH NO SIGNALS NOR MIRRORS. THE HEADLIGHT IS WIPAC AND THE WIRING HARNESS AND ELECTRICAL IS ALL FACTORY ACCORDING TO MEMBERS OF MY LOCAL TRIUMPH CLUB MECHANIC.

I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP IT AS ORIGINAL AS POSSIBLE AND CHANGE THINGS THAT AREN'T PERIOD CORRECT TO ITS ORIGINAL STATE (MINUS THE CARBS OF COURSE).
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LAST NIGHT I WENT UP AND DOWN THE ACH, ABOUT 60 MILES, AND THE BIKE RAN LIKE A KENYAN. THE ONE ISSUE I'M STILL HAVING IS THAT THE BIKE DOESN'T LIKE HOT STARTS. IT TAKES 5 TO 10 KICKS TO GET IT GOING AND IDLE IS DIFFICULT.

ANY THOUGHTS GENTLEMEN?
 
try a new carburator
 
SIR LOIN said:
LAST NIGHT I WENT UP AND DOWN THE ACH, ABOUT 60 MILES, AND THE BIKE RAN LIKE A KENYAN. THE ONE ISSUE I'M STILL HAVING IS THAT THE BIKE DOESN'T LIKE HOT STARTS. IT TAKES 5 TO 10 KICKS TO GET IT GOING AND IDLE IS DIFFICULT.

ANY THOUGHTS GENTLEMEN?
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I have put in jets one size up, I had trouble starting and backfiring/misfiring when the throttle was open. For your situation, you might try adjusting the air jet if not already done so, and if needed, a bigger pilot jet might work. Hope this helps, good luck!
 
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