Mofset Regulator/Rectifier Upgrade

Wire-Wheels

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Jan 7, 2019
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Location
Southern California
My Ride
2002 Triumph America.
Riding Since
Mid-1960's
I know much has been said on this subject. I am just getting around to doing this. My old America has been running flawlessly, but I did a major LED lighting upgrade this year. I figure now would be a good time to upgrade the charging system before it has problems. Can you guys steer me to what the latest product that is now available. My old ride is a 2002, and completely original in that area. ...J.D.
 
Just so you're not ignored, electrics is my weak spot. Sorry.
I hope somebody will jump in.
 
I'm researching (hours and hours and hours so far) MOSFET rectifier/regulators right now. Be aware, there are different types for a lead-acid battery or a lithium battery.

By picture cross-referencing, I've concluded the cheap ones on eBay are not MOSFETs.

So far, the cheapest, good-brand MOSFET I've found is by Tri-Spark. Tri-Spark make electronic ignitions that are often retro-fitted to Meriden bikes. This is the one I'll be getting, if I get one.

I might get a MOSFET because my new electronic speedo and tacho won't work. More investigative work to do--it might be because the non-MOSFETs such as I have produce a messy DC voltage.
 
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I am trying to school myself on this as well. I am a pretty good tech, but regulators are a bit of a "dark spot" in my knowledge. I understand the inverter part of the system, but I am having problems understanding how it regulates current flow so I can choose the best type regulator. I changed to an LED headlight, fog lights, and instrument lighting to lessen the load on the alternator and provide brighter lighting. I just want to be sure I don't shoot myself in the foot by using the wrong regulator. My bike is carbureted so I do not have to worry about any compatibility with the EFI. ...J.D.
 
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I don't know about modern alternators. My understanding of the Meriden/Lucas one is it makes no load difference whether lights are on or off or low wattage. Any current saved by LED lighting is shunted out as heat in the regulator.

The advantage of low current LEDs being at low revs, when alternator isn't working to full, so not such a drain on battery.

In fact, I'm now going to mostly ride with the tungsten headlamp on, to relieve pressure on the regulator.
 
From what I can gather, the regulators on the Hinckley era twins like mine, work the same way. That is what I am trying to get away from. Some of the advertising for the replacement units suggest they draw less horsepower from the engine, because they are not producing full amperage all the time, only when needed. I need to do a little more reading on this. ...J.D.
 
From what I can gather, the regulators on the Hinckley era twins like mine, work the same way. That is what I am trying to get away from. Some of the advertising for the replacement units suggest they draw less horsepower from the engine, because they are not producing full amperage all the time, only when needed. I need to do a little more reading on this. ...J.D.
I'm not an expert, but without the rectify drawing (and shunting if necessary) the current there's a risk of damaging the alternator is my understanding. That said, MOSFETs run cooler, so must draw less current? They still shunt (change excess produced power to heat).

Motorcycle alternators are not like car alternators which actually do only produce required power. Don't think a rectifier can change the motorcycle situation.
 
Thank you for responding. No matter how old we get, there is always something new to learn. ...J.D.
 
Thank you for responding. No matter how old we get, there is always something new to learn. ...J.D.
I'm getting older faster than I'm learning. Hopefully, soon, things will go into reverse.

Anyway, I think there's a school of thought MOSFETs are more reliable. Less likely to fail as don't get so hot.

I'm just off to test my resistor spark plugs, see if my electronic speedo and tacho work with them (had non-resistor plugs until now). If not, I'll buy a MOSFET regulator/rectifier.
 
Well, wire-wheels, resistor spark-plugs solved my issue. If I get a lithium battery, I'll get a MOSFET. Maybe if present one packs up, I'd get one too.
They cost minimum£80, compared to£10 for a regular regulator/rectify, so it's an expense that needs justifying.
 
Solomon: Some further digging, and I found a company called Kimpex. Their #225790 will fit MY bike. They are not cheap, but neither is replacing a stator or battery. On my wish list, when I get the money. You might read their info online and see if they have anything you are interested in. Looks like they make these for a lot of bikes. ...J.D.
 
I've read MOSFET rectifiers are (sometimes) made specifically for lithium battery. Charges at 14.1v, not more or less. Might just be sales talk. But worth thinking about whether you'll get a lithium battery.

Can't be sure, but my alternator looks original. So, 51 years old. It's a high mileage bike too. Don't think stators fail particularly?
 
Solomon: Some further digging, and I found a company called Kimpex. Their #225790 will fit MY bike. They are not cheap, but neither is replacing a stator or battery. On my wish list, when I get the money. You might read their info online and see if they have anything you are interested in. Looks like they make these for a lot of bikes. ...J.D.
Kimpex is just a distributor to aftermatket Powersports clothing and accessories. Glad you found them.
 
Also found RMstator. This is a project for a month where I have some extra cash. They are not cheap. ...J.D.
 
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