Ran On 2 Cylinders For 100 Miles

[Triplet]

Lost a coil on an intermittent basis. Mostly not working! Rough ride.
Just a little worried about damage to piston or valves? I didn’t get the oil sacked with much fuel, no change in the oil level but I’m thinking I should change the oil and do a compression test.
Any thoughts? Experience with this situation on a triple? Thanks

 

[Gogreen]

Hi I think the mechanical should be OK, the bores were still lubed in the normal way, the cylinder would have been running cool and the fact the oil seems OK and the level had not changed is all good. A compression test would be a good confirmation so worth doing and definitely an oil and filter change. The coils are notorious for this and I'm sure its happened a lot. I changed my coils out for 600 stick or coil-overs years ago and never looked back.

 

[shanered6]

make sure it is the coil and not fuel starvation as my super3 used to be a pain for fueling took a while to sort it .

 

[harper6t]

It should be OK, I would change the oil as it would have still been sucking fuel and not burning it, so there may be some contamination of the oil.

 

[Triplet]

Update on this. I still own 2 Hinkley bikes, Super III Daytona and Thunderbird Sport.
I’ve extensively replaced ignition items on both starting w COPs. Both bikes had ignitor pick ups replaced and CDI boxes swapped or upgraded with Ignitech.

Recently I experienced another cylinder drop out on my Tbird. I had previously been chasing a charging issue and sent my alternator to Ricks for a full rebuild. I had noticed my neutral lamp was flickering under rpm. This flickering amplified and I’d loose a cylinder under heat, when cooled no problem.

This all turned out to be the neutral safety switch providing intermittent signal to the ignitor and partially killing to killing the bike. Check your NSSwitch and kickstand switches prior to fooling with any ignition item guys! I wonder how long this has been a problem…. I think I noticed that lamp flickering for quite some time now.

 

[atomsplitter]

I know your pain. I bought a 98 1200 Trophy a couple years ago and it was a mess. The owner had bought it on eBay and had it shipped to him from New Jersey, then left it out in the Texas Spring weather. Hail damage aside, it was a project when he bought it and having it pummeled with ice balls didn't help. The neutral light was out after I replaced the battery and I thought it was the lamp. After working on the bike for a week (rebuilt carbs, changed all hydraulic fluids, new chain, turn indicators, chain, front fender, fuel tank repaired and painted, seat reupholstered, replaced smashed mirrors, and the list goes on) I fired the bike up on my lift and it ran a bit lumpy but it did run. I adjussted the idle mix and synched the carbs and it ran a lot better. Got it down off my lift and I couldn't start it. Put it back on the lift and it fired right up. Rolled it back off the lift and suited up for a test ride and it wouldn't start. This was getting annoying. Rolled it back up the lift, hit the starter button and it roared to life. !!! Then it dawned on me, the delta between lift and driveway was the kickstand was down. Checked the neutral switch wire by pulling gently on it and it came away in my hand. It was broken. Soldered the ends together then connected it to the tab under the engine and turned the switch on and a big N popped up on the dash. Viola!! Neutral lamp working.....

 

[Triplet]

I was always told check the simple stuff first. Sometimes it turns out these switches kinda fail. One would think it works or doesn’t right? Shame on me for not checking each switch thoroughly! I guess the added components of heat + an oil bath don’t help

 

[sikatri]

I was always told check the simple stuff first. Sometimes it turns out these switches kinda fail. One would think it works or doesn’t right? Shame on me for not checking each switch thoroughly! I guess the added components of heat + an oil bath don’t help

It’s easy to miss the simple stuff. LoL.